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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:21 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:17 pm
Posts: 1179
City: Escondido
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 92029
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Oops, I just read my post and it reads as snarky. I don't mean it that way. I am genuinely impressed. It is heartening to know someone out there is making it happen.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:51 pm
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Location: Albany NY
First name: David
Last Name: LaPlante
Status: Professional
My absolute best advice is:
Have John Hall do it......superb work in this regard.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:39 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
I've no doubt it would be, but I'm in Canada. Can't get mahogany out of the USA. Though why you guys can import it but not export it is a different question. Although, if John was doing it, he'd probably be retailing it at full cost, so what would be the point? Me want save dollar.

No worries rlrhett, I don't offend easy...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 3:47 pm
Posts: 1213
Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Ringo
meddlingfool wrote:
As for warpage and cupping etc...

I've seen thousands of mahogany sets cut at the shop, and there was very very little trouble with that...

Maybe mahogany is easy?


For back and side woods, mahogany is as easy as it gets.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:02 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
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Country: Canada
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Brilliant, cause that is my greatest interest presently...


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:49 am
Posts: 897
Location: Northen Cal.
I will add to glue your piece of wood to another piece of wood. A big chunk of fir say. That way when you are getting down to the last cuts that thin piece of wood will be easier to handle and won't go wanky on you.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
And then just iron it off?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
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Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
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Link Van Cleave wrote:
I will add to glue your piece of wood to another piece of wood. A big chunk of fir say. That way when you are getting down to the last cuts that thin piece of wood will be easier to handle and won't go wanky on you.


Like that idea - maybe double stick tape?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 1:47 pm 
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No I just glue it on no need for removal. The fir or backer board will be on the outside, the stuff will be between the blade and the fence. The last piece I cut the blade will often times be cutting some of the fir but you will have a full piece of what ever material you are cutting. Sometimes there will be a very thin piece of your main material left on the fir but so what you will have been able to get the most out of your board. When I glue this on I trim everything so all sides ends are flush. Everything is trued up. It makes it so you can easily cut the last thin piece safely and accurately and get the most out of your board.

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These users thanked the author Link Van Cleave for the post: Alex Kleon (Fri Apr 11, 2014 1:51 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 1:57 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
Country: Canada
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Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Link Van Cleave wrote:
No I just glue it on no need for removal. The fir or backer board will be on the outside, the stuff will be between the blade and the fence. The last piece I cut the blade will often times be cutting some of the fir but you will have a full piece of what ever material you are cutting. Sometimes there will be a very thin piece of your main material left on the fir but so what you will have been able to get the most out of your board. When I glue this on I trim everything so all sides ends are flush. Everything is trued up. It makes it so you can easily cut the last thin piece safely and accurately and get the most out of your board.


Excellent Link

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:20 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm
Posts: 3820
Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
I always figure about 1 piece every 1/4", so on a 4/4, you get 4 pieces or 2 sets, and so on. You end up with a piece about 3/16" thick when saw kerf is taken into account.

Only wood I have really resawn is bubinga. Wood seems hard but the blade seems to have absolutely no issue with it. I have also resawn maple... not really for guitar sets but the maple I have is 5/4 and I don't really want to plane off over 1/4" of materials with the Safe T Planer to get 1" pieces (makes a LOT of shavings and it also means more wear on blades that I cannot find replacements for). So I basically resaw the maple plank (after face jointing one side) through the bandsaw to just a little over 1" before planing them. The material from the other side is just enough to make guitar sets (though the wood isn't attractive enough for me to want to... unless it turns out to be 5A flame)

I'm kinda itching to get some african blackwood from the lumberyard and try to resaw it... but based on my experience in carving the stuff I'm not even sure what kind of yield I might be looking at, but then I think I can get a billet for the price of one ABW sets sold by various luthier suppliers... so if I got more than one sets out of that billet it would have been worth it.

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