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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:39 am 
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Cocobolo
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Ok, Hesh, I'll bite. How can you tell he fretted with board on neck and neck on guitar?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:48 am 
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Unfretted board was on the neck in earlier photos. Since it's a bolt-on neck I'm not sure why you would fret on the guitar since it's so much easier with the neck off. for bolt on necks, I fret with the board on the neck but the neck off of the guitar. I level and dress with the neck on the guitar.

So John, what did you do? Hesh needs to know ;) beehive

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Imbler (Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:11 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:53 am 
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Congratulations on a fine looking instrument.

I need to make a display of my ignorance (it's never very hard for me to display my ignorance). The carbon fiber appears to be yarn or twisted fiber that is simply applied to the bracing. I understand that carbon fiber can impart stiffness in certain applications, but is that true in this particular application? It has the appearance of something very flexible that is simply laid on the wood and glued. How does it work? It's a serious question. I really don't understand.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:48 am 
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I did it just like Steve describes. I fretted the fret board when it was on the neck, but the neck was not bolted on to the guitar. I like to wait until the end to fret so that I can fret with the fret board as level as possible. I do the final level with the neck on the guitar as the extension could move a bit. Not so much with the bolt on bolt off as the extension is supported.


cphanna wrote:
Congratulations on a fine looking instrument.

I need to make a display of my ignorance (it's never very hard for me to display my ignorance). The carbon fiber appears to be yarn or twisted fiber that is simply applied to the bracing. I understand that carbon fiber can impart stiffness in certain applications, but is that true in this particular application? It has the appearance of something very flexible that is simply laid on the wood and glued. How does it work? It's a serious question. I really don't understand.


Thanks,

The fiber is epoxied on top and under the brace. The Carbon Fiber is very resistant to stretching. When a brace is bending one side is compressed and one side is expanded. So the carbon fiber is resisting that expansion thus imparting a lot of stiffness to the brace relative to the weight of CF. The farther the cf is away from the neutral axis of the brace (the spot where there is a transition between compression and expansion) the stiffer the brace.

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These users thanked the author johnparchem for the post: Imbler (Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:27 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:12 pm 
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Koa
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Okay, John. Thanks for the explanation. I at least understand it in theory much better now. Thanks again.
Patrick


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:50 pm 
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cphanna: Think I-beam........!!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:26 pm 
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Nice job John! Keep us posted on how the guitar opens up please.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:53 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Imbler wrote:
Ok, Hesh, I'll bite. How can you tell he fretted with board on neck and neck on guitar?


Well I got it half wrong since the neck was not on the guitar.

What fretting with the board on the neck and the neck on the guitar does for you is afford us the opportunity to level the board, eliminate any body hump, and induce fall-away if that flips your switch and know that before a single fret is driven home that the fret plane and neck shape is as intended. Additionally we want more relief on the bass side and less on the treble side and half the time there is no telling how it will come out. Leveling on the guitar also affords us the opportunity to mill relief where we want it, correct where the relief may be too great, and even slightly change the neck angle too to compensate for a slightly over set and under set neck.

The last advantage in my view of leveling the board on the guitar is the opportunity to mill the board into a compound radius simply by working the leveling beams in a direction that traces the string paths. I'm a fan of compound radius board and this gets me where I want to go.

When you do get to fretting the instrument after all of the above has been addressed very little effort is required once the frets are in to level them. But, you still can't know what you have until one does the final mark, check, and level.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:21 am 
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Hesh, I believe this guitar has a neck attachment design very similar to Taylor in that the extension is fully supported and actually unitized with the neck. I am thinking that allows pretty good tweaking of the finger-board contour on or off the body -- yes/no?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:08 am 
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As Ken mentioned like the Taylor, this neck bolts on and off. I did do a leveling pass on the fret board with the neck bolted on to the body including bolting on the extension for all of the reasons mentioned by Hesh, except intentionally adding a compound radius. On this one I did tweak the neck angle a touch, I also sanded the bass a touch thinner than the treble as is often done on a classical guitar. I did not sand any relief as I used a truss rod to dial in the relief after setup.

Once my fret board was ready I pull the neck and fret. I just like the convenience of not having the guitar on the other end when pounding on the frets.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 2:06 am 
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Trevor Gore wrote:
For those interested, you can find my response here.

The Book doesn't cover falcate braced classicals in any detail (I thought falcate SS, X-braced SS, fan braced CL and lattice CL was enough!), so largely you're all on your own with falcate classicals. All the methodologies still work, though. That was much of the point of the books: how you realise the ideas that you guys come up with.


Are any other Canadians unable to access anzlf.com? I’ve tried various browsers as well as public computers at my library and I’m blocked by the anzlf Cloudflare host every time.

I’m extremely interested in building a falcate classical and would dearly love to read what Trevor posted regarding adapting the steel string design from The Book.


If anyone is able to paste that info here that would be fantastic.

Also if anyone has a contact email for an anzlf admin I’d love to regain access to that forum.

Leo


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 4:00 am 
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Trevor Gore wrote:
There are many workable solutions around this, provided you understand how the top/neck geometry is going to work out.

In the "flat top rim" construction methods, the "flat" is your reference surface and measurements are generally taken in relation to that. Building in a solera, you can maintain a flat rim and dish out the middle, and (when the sound board is turned top uppermost) the dishing appears like a pitcher's mound relative to the flat outfield. All calculations are done relative to the flat outfield and the pitcher's mound is a 2 or 3mm hump that means you need less neck forward set to get to the 3&4mm action at 10-11mm string height above the soundboard. The "flat rim" method always produces a concavity around the sound hole. Put a straight edge from the top of the pitcher's mound to the top of the upper bout, there will always be a gap beneath it. Some people don't like this hollow look, some people don't have a problem with it, most people don't even notice it.

Building using radius dishes, you have to use a different reference, as there is no flat outfield to refer to. So projections of tangents are used, usually the projection of a tangent to the upper bout over the saddle position. The smaller the radius on the dish, the greater the gap between the projection of the tangent to the upper bout (PTUB) and the sound board at the saddle position. Obviously, this needs to be minimised for the preferred neck geometry (3&4mm action 10-11mm clearance) to work out reasonably. This is achieved by flattening the upper bout (max radius) but this still leaves a gap between the PTUB and the saddle position. Forward tilt (supplied by the wedge in the bolt-on, bolt-off (BOBO) design) gets things back to where they need to be.

If you build the sound board in a radius dish then glue it to flat rims, you have to be sure to reconcile your measurements from different references. For example, is 3mm of rise created in a radius dish (rather than a solera) still going to be 3mm of rise when you've glued the periphery to flat sides? Answer - no. What is it going to be? Answer - hard to predict. So therefore hard to figure out how much wedge is required. If you flatten the upper bout of the soundboard and glue to flat rims, it's likely that you'll get the hollow I mentioned earlier. If you flatten the upper bout of the sound board and the upper bout rims whilst keeping the rest of the sound board and rims dished, you don't get the hollow and you do get the geometry working out as prescribed in the book.

If you have a dished soundboard and glue it to flat rims, there's also a propensity, down the track, for cracks along the grain to appear in the waist region.

To machine the pocket for the loose tenon in the BOBO design, the top surface of the neck and the upper bout need to be co-planar. Also, the order of the processes is to dome the rims then flatten the upper bout. Going from flat rims and just doming the lower bout can also be done, but it is also easy to sand in a crank angle at the waist if you do it that way around, which will upset your geometry.

I think that covers all the possible options you've mentioned. They can all be made to work so long as you keep track of the geometry.



These users thanked the author DennisK for the post: Durero (Sat Dec 06, 2025 12:16 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 4:54 am 
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Durero wrote:

Are any other Canadians unable to access anzlf.com? I’ve tried various browsers as well as public computers at my library and I’m blocked by the anzlf Cloudflare host every time.

I’m extremely interested in building a falcate classical and would dearly love to read what Trevor posted regarding adapting the steel string design from The Book.


If anyone is able to paste that info here that would be fantastic.

Also if anyone has a contact email for an anzlf admin I’d love to regain access to that forum.

Leo

Unfortunately ANZLF has had some real problems recently with cyberattacks from overseas (likely from Asia, not Canada). The mods there have had to block most foreign access as a (hopefully) temporary measure. I think they hope to welcome you back very soon.



These users thanked the author Mark Mc for the post: Durero (Sat Dec 06, 2025 12:15 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2025 12:17 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks for your replies, very helpful!


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