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Also, after taking a look at the LMI jig, I've decided to build micro-adjustment into the rub-plate/doughnut similar to theirs. I plan to use a cheap (like $10 cheap)set of M42-M52/M52-M42 lens adapters that I have laying around-one built into the carriage, one built into the doughnut. Devising a stop should be pretty simple.

I'll post a pic once I get around to putting things together if anyone is interested.

One of the biggest issues for me is my cheapo self can't see spending the lot on bearings, especially when my first (and current) laminate trimmer has a bearing foot.

I've done different variations, including horizontal, but I always thought a vertical would work for me, better. Long story short, and because I'm too cheap to buy drawer slides, I came up with a hybrid parallelogramish, with my DeWalt, and a modified bearing (as in skateboard).

This design allows me to adjust height/depth and thickness, infinitely (well, for the bindings anyway); again, bearing foot is key, for me.

Yes, this is all scrap Baltic Birch Ply from cab projects.





This is mocked up, but you get the idea. This cut is setup for the inner purfling on the top and back.
Note the bearing is almost the same size as the bit, it think its either 5/8" or 3/4".


Making the carriage so the top is level (not really necessary I guess) is taken care of by a 1/2" spacer under the upper bout. Since I only do one size, a clamp and small piece of ply holds it in place. I could make it adjustable if I needed to, I guess.

Yes, it is important to make the top level if you want your binding ledges parallel with the sides. Otherwise there really is no point in building a jig like this.

Absolutely right! I guess I had a massive brain fart in dismissing its importance.