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Then I misunderstood what you meant by negates. I thought you meant negates the benefits, but you meant makes the job harder. Sorry about that.

Whether one way of doing things is easier or harder is a subjective thing. I feel that dealing with long strands of wood, whether they be purfling or binding or linings, is a hassle when using hide glue. If I can do smaller pieces over more steps, I find that easier than trying to do a whole side at once. So, that's my view of simpler and easier.

I haven't done this yet, but, I've been thinking about it for some time.

I want to try making a positive and negative mold with the shape of the sides built in, whatever body style you're after. The space between inside and outside to be he final lining thickness.

Then, bend your linings in straight form. When doing the lining glue ups, do it in a radius dish using the molds. Trying to force the up and down contour into the linings with the dish, but maintaining the vertical by using the positive/negative molds...

I like to use poplar for my laminated linings. They're 5/8 x .100. I only do two layers. The side supports are the same size. I glue in the side supports first. Then I glue in one layer between the supports so any irregularities are minimized. Then I glue in the second layer over the side supports and the first layer. Then I carve them in place. A little time consuming but pretty simple. I dampen the top layer before I glue it in so it's pretty flexible.

_________________
Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

I'm glad to hear that Poplar works well, because it is easy for me to get it locally.

I've been using a method very similar to Burton's for the last several years:
-make wide lay-up (wide enough to produce all four linings)
-trace profile
-cut to line

Easy, perfect fit.