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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:17 am 
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Hi all.

Just starting to use shallac. I was practicing on madagascar rosewood offcuts as well as some morado and I noticed major bleeding issues. I often use small maple purflings between the bindings and the back and sides, so I'll have to figure out a way to protect these.

I read egg whites can be used for that, but I was wondering if any of you had something else to suggest, just to expend my options.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:22 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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paint the purfling and or binding with a fine artist brush with shellac. the bleeading will not get on the ple but only on the top of the shellac and can be scraped back later


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:24 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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If you are French polishing by chance you paint shellac on the binding and purfling and allow to cure before you spit coat the rosewood.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Thanks Michael.

I don't intend to french polish, I intend to use shellac as a sealer under polyurethane. I need to shellac to block the oils from the rosewood. I'm afraid that if I sand/scrape back the bindings I will also sand part of the sides and back that reveal oils again.

Again maybe not...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:26 pm 
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by the time you scrape back the seal coats are had. if you do expose some rosewood you cand paint a bit of sealer back over allow to harden. i have to do this process on every rosewood guitar with light woods in the purfling and or bindings. it takes 10 min to paint the binding and purfling and 20 min to carfull scrape when done.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:36 pm 
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And how to you 'paint' the bindings/purflings? Using a Q-tips? A brush?

And how long does it take for shellac to fully cure (for a 2lb cut)?

Thanks again!

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Last edited by Alain Moisan on Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:37 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I always spray on my first coat of shellac .
I use a HVLP touch-up gun !
No bleeding and it looks great because of the atomization.

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:43 pm 
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Thanks Mike. That makes sense.

But I'm not equiped with spray gun, nore can I equip myself.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:44 pm 
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I have found that with rosewoods that bleed a lot (cocobolo is the worst, but there are others), the alcohol in shellac draws out color almost immediately and the brush or pad spreads it.

Best thing I've found is using an egg white glare for a size. Google that and about 4 down under a heading re gold leafing you will find a recipe--it's easy to make. Brush it on; you can lightly sand back any high spots of dried egg white and still get the sizing effect.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:18 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Alain Moisan wrote:
And how to you 'paint' the bindings/purflings? Using a Q-tips? A brush?

And how long does it take for shellac to fully cure (for a 2lb cut)?

Thanks again!


fine artist brush the shellac will cure to hard in 10-12 min.

that said I like Howards thoughts on this. you would not have to be as carefull painting.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:25 pm 
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Thanks Howard for your suggestion. I searched with google but only found recipe with egg yokes, not egg white.

I'm currently tring out Micheal's suggestion on some offcuts to which I glued the same binding and purfling. I'll let you guys know what comes out of it.

Thanks again!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:50 pm 
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Alain Moisan wrote:
Thanks Howard for your suggestion. I searched with google but only found recipe with egg yokes, not egg white.

I'm currently tring out Micheal's suggestion on some offcuts to which I glued the same binding and purfling. I'll let you guys know what comes out of it.

Thanks again!


Just use plain raw egg whites, paint it in with what ever. just like you were sizing a top. Yokes will stain and stink wow7-eyes


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:49 pm 
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I didn't do the Google thing, but one way is to whip the egg whites until stiff, then let them sit at room temp for a while, and drain off the liquid that settles out in the bowl. It eliminates some of the stringiness of the egg whites, but I don't know that it's necessary.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:09 am 
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Well, the steps Michael initially proposed worked quite fine.

Thanks a lot for all your comments and suggestions!

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Alain Moisan
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(Now building just for fun!)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:21 am 
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Egg White Glare

Whip one egg white until stiff peaks form. (Use an electric mixer, it will go faster.)
Sprinkle approximately 1/3 egg of water over peaks (“1/3 egg of water” means eggshell
of water, that is, the volume of water that would fill, in this case, the smaller half of the
eggshell).
Let stand over night.
Egg whites will become frothy and liquid will separate out; pour this liquid out from
under the froth into a jar. This is the glare. Discard frothy stuff.
Stored in the refrigerator, the glare will last for months. It may discolor and get a little
more yellow or brown. It will also get smelly. So long as the liquid remains clear, it is
fine; the older the better for good consistency. If the liquid gets cloudy or milky, the glare
has spoiled and is breaking down chemically—discard and prepare a new batch.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:26 am 
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Thanks Lillian!

I stored your recipe for later.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 4:13 pm 
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Alain, you are most welcome. I lifted the recipe from the website that Howard was referring to.

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