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I have experience re-sawing with both a 1/2" timeberwolf on a jet 14" bandsaw and a 3/4 on the Rikon. It was years ago that I was re-sawing on the 1/2" with the Jet, but I seem to recall it going easier than the 3/4.

My 3/4" blade is still pretty sharp, but when it does come time to replace I plan on going back to a 1/2" and see how it goes, I suspect it will be a little easier on the motor.

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I use a Cdn made timberwolf equivalent, tuff tooth, fomr R&D bandsaws in Brampton Ontario. I only use two blades - 3/16-10, and 1/2-3, and buy both in the Industrial version fomr R&D - they are hardened front and back edge. The 1/2-3 can resaw pretty much anything, albeit a little slowly on my 3/4 hp 14 inch delta with riser - but it will resaw, and I have done a LOT. Tough to beat for 20 bucks .. Cdn.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I have not found a timberwolf blade that compared to a lennox. I use them for resawing. The carbide tooth works well with all types of wood. As for the the other cutting , I tried timberwolf blades and I cannot say they were any better than other brands. I have had better luck with the stock Grizzly blades. I just tried them again the last 2 weeks and I am back with the stock Grizzly.
I use a coarser tooth , seldom do I use a finer blase than 6 tooth per inch. I prefer 4 for rough cutting. My most common blades are 1/8 and 1/4. My resaw is a 3/4 with a .065 kerf and 1 2/3 tooth per inch. I also use ceramic guides on the big saw and non roller guides on the 16inch.
I have used roller guides but I learned to like the flat guides. Just my preference.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

The only Grizzly blade I ever used was a piece of crap with a bad weld. I like Timberwolf. I never use 1/8". I use a lot of 1/4" 6 tpi, and 1/2" 4 tpi. For resaw the 3/4" ASS is the one to get. Lenox makes a good blade, as does Starrett, and I've used both and been satisfied. But they are skip tooth, while the Timberwolf comes hook tooth. A new hook tooth Timberwolf blade outperforms either Lennox or Starrett skip tooth, but the skiptooth blades seem to last longer.

The main advice I can give is that steel tooth bandsaw blades are an expendable shop supply. Keep them in stock, toss them when they wear out.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I bought some Timeberwolf blades for my old 24" band saw a few years back. I got the 3/4" AS-S to do some resawing, which worked well, and I also got some 1/2" blades that I liked. Later, I found a local supplier for quality steel blades (and sharpening service/machine shop, great place); after all the steel in those Timberwolf blades comes from my neighbors over in Sweden!

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

To anyone that just got a band saw , get a book to learn how to set one up. Howard , every once in a while I get a bad weld , but I grind all the welds down. It is simple and ads life to the blade. Band saw blades are expendable. MSC ENCO and many places will custom weld blades. Find a supplier that has a good blade and stick with them.
I am lucky to live close to a Grizzly and once you know what to look for in a blade , you can spot a bad one
john

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I'm using a Grizzly 14" bandsaw with riser, Iturra tension spring and cool blocks. It does ok for resawing. Grizzly blades were completely unimpressive. I've had good luck with 1/4" and 1/2" Timberwolf blades for general use. Resawing with either the 1/2" or 3/4" Timberwolf just didn't work well; tracking was poor and wasted too much wood. I'm not sure why the 1/2" Timberwolf didn't work but I blame the poor performance of the 3/4" on a too-flexible frame and a too-small motor. You might get better results with a stiffer-framed, more powerful bandsaw but I just don't think these small cast C-frame saws can put enough tension on the wider blades.

By far the best results I've gotton resawing were with a 1/2" Woodslicer Resaw blade from Highland Hardware.I get decent cuts with much better tracking which results in better yield.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1293

I would love to try the Lennox carbide tipped blades but I don't resaw enough to justify the expense (same reason I still use the 14" saw). I would also like to upgrade to the Rikon 14" deluxe ......maybe next year

Good luck

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

105" blade length on a Delta.
I'd just as well use Olson 1/4" blades for half the price of the timberwolf, cause the timberwolf isn't twice as good, but they both work ok, for just regular use.
Everything about the Woodslicer is better (great), I wish they also made them in 1/4".

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Steve - The 14" cast iron frames can't tension a 3/4" blade to anywhere close to a useful range.

I like to resaw and use my 14" Delta with a riser and a replacement 2 horse Baldor motor, and use a Lennox 1/2" blade (tooth pattern?? it's whatever Joe Iturra carries). I can only get this to about 17,500 lbs of tension (the blade wants 30,000), but it resaws fine at this tension and there is no issue with blade drift at a level I can detect. I've been very happy with the Lennox blade and highly recommend it for this type of work. The motor change made an immense difference. If I had to start from scratch, I'd get a steel frame saw, as I have as much money in the Delta at this point with all the mods.

Otherwise, I use the 1/4" Timberwolf variant from Lee Valley, just because there is always something coming in the mail from there at a reasonable interval

Jim

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Does anyone have any real info on what kerf the Timberwolf blades cut? I've been having a hard time finding specs for this.

My two main saws are odd sizes, so I generally have all my blades made from Simonds or Morse stock over at Detroit Band Saw (nice shop to have up the road, and very reasonably priced as well). I generally stock some Simonds flexback blades for general use of varying sizes and cuts, and a few Morse bi-metal blades for metal work. I was picking up an order on Friday and talking to them about resaw blades for a Rockwell 20" I use on occasion, and they recommended the Simonds Red Streak blades. Looks like I can get down to a .065" kerf with their hardback blades. Just wondering how the Timberwolf's kerf compares.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Well Dave bro here is some info fresh off the saw.

I use a Timberwolf 1/4"x6PC on my manly 12" Jet and get great results within the limitations of this saw.

I am measuring the kerf at .049".

I just walked into the basement and found a board I was using to set thickness on a re-saw. The kerf measured at .054". Problem is I don't remember if that was my old saw or my new saw, all I can say is that it was with a 3/4" 3tpi timberwolf blade. I did manage to get 4 pieces from a slightly more than 4/4 curly maple without stressing much at all.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

ignore - hit the wrong button

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Cool. Thanks. I wonder why they don't make that info a bit more clear in their specs - seems like it would be a valuable sale point for at least a part of the market.

They must have a pretty shallow rake on those. No one has had any problems with chip clearing or burning with these blades? Also how are these blades priced, generally. Say for a 3/4" or 1" by 11'9", would you be expecting prices toward the $25, or the $150 end of the range?

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

David:

I ordered the 1" 4 tpi pc from Grizzly, but the Timberwolf blade. Mine are 143" long at were at right about $35. I think from suffolkmachinery.com they're just a hair more, but that would be offset if you're buying 3 and get one free. Suffolkmachinery will make them to your length.

I am planning on going to my local sharpening shop in the future where he welds them to whatever length you may need. I believe they are from Lenox blade stock.


Darrin

Thanks Darrin. That's cheaper than I expected. I don't think my local blade shop stocks Lennox stuff, but it may be worth placing an online order to try them out.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

David, you get knowledgeable saleswomen on the phone at Suffolk. They know their product line. Nice company to work with. Their system will remember what length blades you use.

For resaw, the main thing about the 3/4" AS-S blade is that it is made from .025" stock, same as the narrower blades. In their other blades (and this seems true for about every manufacturer), the stock thickness goes up after 1/2". The set of the blade measures about .045". Kerf size will be a little more, depending on saw and setup.

The positive hook gives a fast cut; as I mentioned, they do seem to wear out a little faster than skip tooth blades with no hook, but it's not like they wear out very quickly. Give them a try.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I think having a sales person that know what they have , and what the product can do is as important as the product. Band saw blades are not all the same. I think that is why I never had a good result with the timberwolf blades. I picked mine up at Grizzly , and I do a lot of cutting on plywood and thicker stock. The finish was fine but the feed rate was too slow.
I found Lennox through Bob Cefalu and Bob Gleason and they people there suggest what blade I needed. The resaw blade has a very thing kerf and on a 5/4 piece I can get an extra set. I also learned about ceramic guides from these guys. They are worth every penny.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it