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I hear alot of you use tru-oil on your necks? just wondering if any of you would be kind enough to share your method?

Thanks

Jonny

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"Anything that happens, happens. Anything that in happening causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen. Anything that in happening happens again, happens again. Though not necessarily in that order." Douglas Adams

And while you're sharing your method, can you use Tru-Oil over Z-Poxy?

Thanks

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Yes ,Chuck you can apply it over Z-poxy or shellac.

We discussed this recently in this threadhttp://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=20692.

It is easy to apply, but as it goes on very thinly can be a little unforgiving of poor preparation, so create a smooth surface for it with whatever grade of paper you are happy with.

To apply the tru-oil, I use ordinary kitchen paper, invert the bottle onto the paper and before using it on the wood make sure that the oil is absorbed into the paper rather than sitting on the surface, remember you are going to apply it in very, very thin coats. Rub with the grain of the wood in long straight lines, it's almost as if you are trying to rub it off rather than apply it. It will dry quickly so you can do three or so sessions a day. I like to build to about 12 coats. You can just rub back with a very light abrasive, I think Dave White uses OOOO wire wool, between sessions. When I have got to the level I want, I gently hand buff it with my fingers (have to rethink that one now I guess! ) this will slightly burnish the surface. I then leave a few days then rub it back with rottenstone in oil and if needed finish with Maguiars swirl remover.

On tops or oily woods it is a good idea to apply it over spit coat of shellac.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

I do pretty much the same as Colin but I lightly buff with med fine and fine Menzerna.

I do pretty much the same as colin but use 3,200 micro mesh to cut back slightly between coats then buff up through all the grits of micro mesh and then buff out with mcquires on the final coat for a high gloss finish.

as colin has said it raelly pays to pay close attention to wood prep and i personaly like to burnish the wood with micro mesh (ala hesh,s briges) before the first coats of oil to really bring the pop, chatoyance and polished feel out of the wood.

i also micro mesh fingerboards for a super smooth feel and no need to oil really.

but thats just me and what works for me may not work for you.

you should try a few scrap peices first.
let me know what wood you are using and i will send you down some scrap to practice on (plus a free set of bindings head veneer and rosette square becouse of the problem we had when i was ill last year)
Joel.

On my first neck with Tru-Oil over Z-Poxy I started having whiskers of grain showing up in the finish after a few months. After sanding back with Micromesh and a little more Tru-Oil all seems well but it would probably be a good idea to do a couple of grain raising sessions before the final sanding and Z-Poxy application.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thanks guys! You are awesome!

just need to get the guitar completed first like thats ever going to happen! lol

thanks

Jonny

_________________
"Anything that happens, happens. Anything that in happening causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen. Anything that in happening happens again, happens again. Though not necessarily in that order." Douglas Adams

I will throw one at you that I have done two experimental necks with and really like the results so far. That is wipped on or brushed on Med thick CA. preliminary results are quite good. 3 thin sessions total. First wiped 45 degrees to the grain. cure in 2 hours. sand back with 220 wipe with naptha allow to flash off. 2 sessions with the grain allow to cure between sand level with 220 and allow to cure 48 hours. sand to desired sheen and buff as needed. it reall makes for a very hard, slick, fast and wet looking finish (not plastic feeling at all)

I didn't know any different, and used the Birchwood-Casey filler (looks like thick Tru-oil) first, then about 12 coats of Tru-oil wiped on as others have said (mahogany neck). After micromesh it looks and feels great, but let the Tru-oil cure for a few weeks before the micromesh. Very slick, with good shine - I love it.

Steve

I didn't know any different, and used the Birchwood-Casey filler (looks like thick Tru-oil) first, then about 12 coats of Tru-oil wiped on as others have said (mahogany neck). After micromesh it looks and feels great, but let the Tru-oil cure for a few weeks before the micromesh. Very slick, with good shine - I love it.

Steve