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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:44 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:06 pm
Posts: 169
Hello all.
I've recently started work on my first ever "laminate archtop" build. It's very exciting! I look forward to the prospect of having this very functional jazz box if I ever finish it! :)

I've managed to tweak the body shape just right (traced on the plate), and last week I began cutting the f-holes. Here's where my worry is.... I've never cut out f-holes on a laminate archtop before. I was naive enough to think it would be exactly the same thing as cutting them out of a piece of Spruce! I should also say, that I have about 3 different coping saws. Nothing spectacular, just standard stuff.

So! While I was sweating over this ply plate, I was thinking of how awkward the saw was taking it. I stepped back, tried to go a bit slower, etc... By the time I got to the second hole, I wound up chipping (!) a very tiny piece from the top. Extremely tiny but enough to make it less than "nice clean work". [headinwall]

I thought I would ask all the experts here; how are the blades graded with coping saws and which one would be good for this kind of job where it's very difficult to get a "flow" going? Also, do I have any hope with that small chip I made, or do I have to either live with it or design around it? I'd appreciate any input on this one.

Best Regards,
John L.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:38 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:45 pm
Posts: 1370
Location: Calgary, Canada
Status: Amateur
John, I used to use a coping saw but now use this fret saw http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,42884 with 2/0 or #1 blades. It seems the finer blades are much easier to find and with the deep throat on the fret saw, you don't have to keep twisting the coping saw blade for direction changes. Sorry for not being more helpful on the coping saw blade choice.

Darrel


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:31 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
I used to hack em out with a coping saw quite shy of the line, but now I use a template and pin router. They are still quite shy of the line, and I use sandpaper wrapped dowels and sanding sticks to get them to the line. It's worth an hour to do this when you have spent 4-5 hours on the top.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:38 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3445
Location: Alexandria MN
What pin router do you use Haans?
Terry

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:27 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Terence, for mandolin plates I have a modified Dremel. I also have a Shop Fox with PC 690 for larger routing.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 1:45 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3445
Location: Alexandria MN
Thanks Haans
TJK

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