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What is your favorite chisel and why?
I've got a decent set of big box store chisels that I spend an awful lot of time keeping sharp. They work well, but aren't the most comfortable to use and not the easiest to maintain. I was wondering if ya'll had a good recommendation on a couple of chisels. Mostly for simply carving braces and cleaning up glue lines. Does anyone find the offset or curved chisels useful? Thanks in advance.
-j.

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“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

I like the Lei-Neilsen ones a lot. The real price of a chisel is based on how long it takes to fix when you buy it and how well it holds an edge. If you add up the time spent sharpening over your or the chisels lifetime, the purchase price differences become insignificant. Lei- Neilsens are in great shape right out of the box.
A ½” can do almost everything I need to do.
A great thing about a socket style is you can knock out the heavy handle and use it between your thumb and fingers for detailed work. In fact the chisel I use most is an old nut file, I’m guessing .040 -.050” and ½” wide that I took with me when I left Collings, (sorry Bill). Its great for little trimming tasks. Sometimes I put a little sticky backed sand paper on it for better traction on my fingers or as a little sanding stick.
An offset handle really just changes the angle between the handle and the cutting edge. One of the worst features of bad chisels is having the handle parallel to the back of the blade. The ergonomics work better if the handle is angled relative to it. Japanese chisels are great this way. An offset chisel has the same effect. But I find them somehow distracting for my brain.
Side bevels that are even come right down near the back make for maneuvering in delicate places without as much risk to nearby surfaces.
Again, Lei-Neilsen’s are good this way.
I have a curved chisel I bought years ago because someone said they loved it but it gets no use. I find it’s just an offset chisel that’s a bit of a pain to sharpen. It has no side bevels to boot.
Anyway that’s my 2 cents. Many opinions I’m sure.

Two words: Blue Spruce

I sanded the handle on my .5" lie neilsen & it lays flat now for paring. They hold an edge pretty well.
Mike

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Mike McNerney

I´m with Hesh. Blue Spruce !! wonderful to work with and a great feel in the hand. The steel like forms/ bends to what you cut with it. love em.

Lars

I have a 1/4 Blue spruce in dovetail paring style, with an African Blackwood handle and I really love it. Quite a nice surprise when I took it out of the box, the finish is exceptional, and later on the metal performed well. It costs a small fortune but it is worth it if you like fancy tools.

If you don't want to spend a lot, and functionality is all you want, Pfeil are really excellent chisels, and dirt cheap too.

If you want to try Japanese chisels, the Fujihiro brand at Hida Tool are excellent and mid priced (about 65$ a piece)

One thing I love about Japanese chisels is that their carbon steel is sensibly easier to sharpen than the A2 alloyed steel I have in my western style tools.

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Build log

I agree with that 100%. 6 years ago I bought a full set of Iyoroi chisels but I grab the same 4 about 90% of the time. Added a 5/8" Blue Spruce last year and really like the flex and control the longer paring blade gives me. Both hold their edges well and are well balanced.

Tim

Here is a list of my chisels, in the order I bought/needed them:

-10mm antique chisel which I got for free. My only chisel on my first guitar. Don't use it much these days.

-2mm LMI chisel. Bought specifically for bridge slot work and for creating the pockets for purfling and binding at the neck/body junction. Really important tool.

-18mm Iyoroi (the higher grade type) No specific task, my "work horse"

-15mm as above. Bought specifically for carving of square ramps on the headstock, but I mostly use it instead of the above when I don't find it.

-4.5mm Fujihiro. Bought specifically for my outer rosette ring. Before I was struggling with the 2mm one.

-6mm (1/4) Blue spruce. Bought specifically for my inner rosette ring and for cutting brace pockets in lining/kerfing. Used the 2mm before Very useful in brace and neck carving too where the bigger ones are awkward to use.

(( 18mm chrome vanadium cheapo: can opener, log splitting etc. ))

What I would really love to buy at some point is a nice 12mm Tasai for brace work.

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Build log

Chisels eh...

You want the best?

Well get a set of Berg, Erik/Eskilstuna, Sweden : "Shark" Chisels. Sockets not the tangs with boxwood handles...thats if you can find a set at a reasonable price in North America...They are still easily enough found in Europe, and on ebay ...sometimes sold as collectors and others as just an old chisel. Been out of production for many a year now (1950). At least the socket handles are, the tang type are still made but take a pass on the tang type. Junk stores, flea markets and garage sales. Often found with out handles.

they look like this. One of the handles is not original. The logo E.A. Berg. is etched onto the metal with the name, 'Eskilstuna', and a picture of a shark below. Some times a shark and an anchor is used.




I have or had a full set from 1/4 to 2 inch untill the 5/8s grew legs. Have used all sorts of chisels , but like these the best.

blessings
the
Padma

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.


.

There is a tendency on this forum for people to shop for high end "boutique" new tools, and then talk as if these are the only way to go.

I'm all for good tools, but there is still plenty of good American, Swedish, and English iron for sale on Ebay, Craigs list, etc. Less than half the price of new stuff (or less than 1/3 if you are buying Blue Spruce and Lie-Nielsen) and just as good, with a lot more vibe. It seems that all the metallurgy that went into cutting tools in the past 80 years or so went into making them stay shiny rather than taking a better edge. I'm particularly partial to Witherby (and I notice on Ebay that lots of other people are, too). But hey, Swan, Buck, Barton, KeenKutter, Jennings, Union, Peck Stowe Wilcox, Greenlee, old Stanley, Sorby, etc.etc.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I have a few chisels. I really like my Blue Spruce 1/2" paring chisel, and LN Chisel ( i have 1/2" and 3/4"). But to be honest, my favorite is an old Bucks Bros 3/4" paring bevel edged chisel I got off Ebay for about 15 bucks.

I am a beginner, so my experiences may not mean much. But I like to use 3 sizes of chisels: 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4".

Thx!

Glenn

I have a set of 6 Irwin Marple chisels. They don't hold an edge for very long but can get pretty darn sharp.

My father has a set of Japanese chisels which are beyond sharp, however he doesn't allow anyone to ever touch except himself. I'm still working on that one .

Well, sure, Filippo. I get your drift. Handmade guitars are a luxury item, and people can get very well-functioning guitars for a lot less. Absolutely. And it's a good analogy.

And as with handmade guitars, if the Festool and Blue Spruce and Lie-Nielsen float your boat and you find it worth the price, go for it and enjoy. But I wouldn't only tell someone who asked me "What is a good guitar to get" about high end handmades, as if everyone should have one of these if they want a decent instrument. That's my point. What I've seen here many times is the equivalent of leaving out all the good used factory guitars if someone asked you about what to play, and going right to the high end individual makers.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

The Narex chistels fron Lee Valley are hard to beat for bang for your buck IMHO.

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

You, dudes, the question asked was ... "what is your favorite chisel and why".

Oh course we can always shift this thread to
"high end "boutique" new tools,
hand made
"buy now, buy now, buy now",
fabricated by an ancient family of Japanese hand forged damascus steel sword makers.
Don't hold an edge worth a dangle berry but they cost $400 for a set of 3.

So I answered j's question. As many of us did.

However -j, I now throw in some advise...go to a junk store and score whatever works for you.

Simple eh.

Now -j if you got moneys to burn, well then I have this here set of surgical steel chisels with BRW handles, hand forged by elves you might be interested in. Lignum vitae handles for a small additional charge. Pm me....we talk.

Right.


Padma

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Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.


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Thanks for saying that, Howard!

Something is seriously 'out of whack' when $65 is called 'mid-priced' for a chisel, IMO.
I have a deal with myself: the day I sell a guitar I've made for $10k, I'll buy myself a $100 chisel... and I'm not holding my breath. (I also don't use the lack of that $100 chisel as an excuse for my (lack of) craftsmanship).
I know when my tools are dull, and if it takes a few extra trips to the sharpening stone, well, it's part of the hobby.

But, hey- it's very pleasant using a good piece of equipment or tool.
I like some of the older tools I have as I imagine they have a bit of 'history' in 'em.
Next trip to ebay, I'll have that list of brand names from Howard in hand.

Cheers
John

Yeah, stay away from the junky Berg tang chisels. In fact you better send them to me for proper disposal.
I particularly don't like those silly Sharkolite ones with the plastic yellow handles. They were sold in hardware stores in the 50's.
What I really don't like is the short length and thin blades. The balance is too good for joinery and the steel is too high a quality. They get too sharp and hold a edge for too long. The red plastic ones are junk too. The old one's from the 60's and 50's before sandvik and balco took over.
The wood handled ones are no good either. The birch handles have a these little inclusions and holes in them.
In the name of keeping these things off of the street I have safetly put away at least 70 chisels and plane irons with the Berg name.
A few Li-berg's as well. They are worse yet.

Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

OK. I didn't give a direct answer, although I mentioned that I like old Witherby's a lot. For a favorite, it varies depending on what I'm doing. Sometimes a long socket handle Witherby in 3/8 to 3/4". Sometimes a really long and thin Sheffield patternmaker's chisel with London pattern boxwood handle; same size range. I have these from a few different makers and they are all tools I wouldn't trade for anything being made today.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Well there you have it - complete agreement and this settles that.....

In my own case my woodworking adventure and education started in my former bathroom with guitar building. As such much of the stuff that I purchased early on was as a result of recommendations made by OLFers.

In other words I accept full responsibility.... but not the blame.....

Now if someone would help me poke a stinkin hole in my stinkin wall for my dust collector.....

I like my L-N's too and Dave Jeske(Blue Spruce) did a few "firsts" for me -they are like good guitars. when you get unemployed or a big co-pay you can sell them quickly and with little loss. In the meantime you get to use them. Hint-you may want to keep eyes out in Spring 2010 Swapapalooza. I have a nice mid-point set of Japanese chisels that I enjoy and then a host of all of those old USA and British chisels. I have 30+ pieces of the miniature Pfeil carving chisels and they are magnificent-Woodcraft did some kind of non-set sale and I bushwhacked them and I was given that lovely Hirsch/Two Cherries Miniature set from Lee Valley.

As with the Blue Spruces, I sold the set of 750's and a couple of real Witherby sets I had.

As for favorites, I think many that have average honing skills will like traditional air and oil hardening steels. Thus, the A2-s and D-2s can be frustrating. I think that if pressed, I would save my cobbled together selection of old USA/ British brands. If I had to thin those, I would try to hang on to my Swans and fill with Witherby. I kind of hone as an obsessive hobby so I handle exotics well-rough with Wolverine or Tormek, pre-hone with a precious "Lily-White" and finish out with Shapton 5K and 8K and strop on diamond paste loaded leather and plain smooth leather. The stones are worth the money for those steels(I use diamond plates for shaping and maintaining stones-DMT Mono).

For those who want quick edge restoration, the conventional steels are best. I have Ashley Iles and Crowns from England and they take and hold an edge well.)Those little cranked R & L Crowns are very handy. Crowns may be in the best for the money category-mine have been consistently good traditional steel and comfortable.They remind me of pre-Irwin Marples.


LMII's "Glue-Clearing" chisel is Ron Hock steel and I use it all of the time for about anything where the clearance is handy. About 4 times a year I used to "lobby" Ron H. pretty hard to make chisels. As far as I know he still resists.

I use the old Stanley 720 and 750 chisels. For most of the work I do, the 1/4" and 1/2" ones do the job. Great steel and feel.

The best I've ever tried were some handmade blue steel Japanese ones that were demonstrated along with other high end Japanese tools at my woodworking club's monthly meeting. I've never worked with any tool that was so unbelievably sharp. These were in the hundreds per chisel however.

Actually, the original question continued:


I don't think most of us need to spend $200 to get a 'couple of chisels' for 'carving braces and cleaning up glue lines'.
Probably the first question that should have been asked was: 'How much money do you want to spend?'

I have some Two Cherries chisels. I have never tried any others but these seem very nice and the price wasn't through the roof. They are ~$25 a piece.

Ashley Iles MKII. Accurately made and no need to work on the bevels or flatten the back. You might call them the mid price solution. Plenty of cheap chisels that are 'good enough' - it's just that they require some work to get the best out of them. They usually lack the refined handle/bevels of their expensive counterparts.
Antique chisels can be very good.

Henry Taylor Long Thin Bevel Edge Paring Chisels, 3/4" for braces, I like the length and they take and keep a good edge, dirt cheap generic chisel set for cleaning glue lines (US$18 for 5).
I have a set of Japanese bench chisels, bought in a home depot store over there for around US$200, two layered steel, for general work.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.