Official Luthiers Forum!

...wood or other substrate. In my case...lexan.

The issue I'm dealing with is the warping of the paper product when using thinned white or yellow glue's. I've thought of contact adhesive but never tried it.

Thanks,
Chris

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

try using super 77 out of the spray can. faster and easier than contact cement. and if you take care of the can/nozzle by emptying it after each use, one can will last for years.

ya . . . empty the nozzle, not the can, after each use. might as well say it before someone else does.

super 77??

Never mind Phil....Googled it.

Thanks!

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Hi Chris,

3M #45 is a bit easier to get off wood than the #77, for those cases where you are sticking paper templates directly to wood.

3M #45 or #77 (or #95, for massive overkill) will work fine for the templates on Lexan. This may be obvious, but leave the protective paper on the Lexan, and apply your template on top of that.

For straight lines, scribe right through the paper and cut into the Lexan surface. If making a template for the instrument top or back, you can drill 1/16" holes at both ends of where your braces are intended to go. Then, you can use a mechanical pencil with the lead extended to mark the brace locations on the top or back.

Dennis

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Dennis Leahy
Duluth, MN, USA
7th Sense Multimedia

I just paid the BORG a little over 10 bucks for the Super 77. I think this stuff will fit the bill perfectly.

I have templates drawn on graph paper that I need to affix to various things and now I feel like my success rate just went way up.

Thanks Yall!
Chris

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

I need to find some of that as I am just getting ready to transfer a paper tracing into wood.

Thanks,
Chuck

For transferring to wood, old-fashioned carbon paper (sometimes called 'transfer paper' nowadays) works well, if you can find it. You do have to 'draw over' the lines on your plan, but you don't have to destroy the plan in the process (like gluing, scribing through, etc...) I find that glued-down tracings tend to lift off the wood when I'm sawing/sanding.

Unfortunately, most of the guitar plans out there have the 'Copyright' notice prominently printed on them, and the 'professional' blueprint/copy shops in my town won't duplicate them for 'shop drawings'. The 'Kinko-style' places don't care...yet. Being able to make copies for shop drawings seems so obvious.... this wasn't a problem with boat plans when I needed extras.. A simple "Owner has the right to make a single working copy from these plans" would be nice.

PS- For gluing, I use the 3M spray stuff. BTW, the Lexan I get has a not-very-securely-fastened plastic 'protective layer' attached; it generally comes loose easily. I do remember the stuff with the paper, though...better..... though when the plastic had been sitting around for a few years the paper overlay could be tough to remove.

Cheers
John

I second the use o super 77. What I do is mist the template and let it become tacky for 5 minutes or so. This allows for easy peeling off of the template after your done your cut...Mike

Chris, the 77 is tackier/stronger bond and more permanent than the 45. So, to help with cleanup of the wood, spray only the backside of the paper template (and let it "dry" for a minute or two) - do not spray the wood.

Yes, it will stick even better if you spray both surfaces and wait a minute or three before sticking it down, but that is really only advisable for permanent gluing, or in the case where you are able to remove the entire wood layer by some operation other than scraping/sanding.

On wood parts, if the particular spot where you stuck your template can handle mild heat, you can use a hairdryer to make the template easier to remove (though you'll probably still need denatured alcohol to get the gunk off.)

Dennis

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Dennis Leahy
Duluth, MN, USA
7th Sense Multimedia

Another vote for the Super 77 or one of it's stablemates. Very easy to use, clean up well.
I use it for cutting out my bigger inlay pieces, as well as on wood or plastic.

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

I use a glue stick for paper to wood, it has minimal water content so does not warp the paper.

I glue patterns on pearl with titebond. When you're done drop in a cup or bowl of water and the pattern falls off.

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"Try to be the person your dog thinks you are."

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