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While researching binding channel production techniques (wow I sound smart there) I discovered, or rather remembered that one can do binding channels by hand. This appeals to me a lot because I always love using hand tools over power tools, especially if I can avoid the noisy scary router, and I firmly believe hand tools, in the right hands, produce much better, more precise results.

So what I have learned is this: cutting the channels themselves involves two steps as far as I can see. Step one is scribing to the appropriate depth and width, then cutting the wood out (hard to explain that one, cut the two dimensions and the wood comes out when the cuts meet at the corners of the channel am I correct?) and then cleaning the channels out. To clean the channels out, I can use a tool which basically consists of a piece of sharp metal at an exact square held by a piece of wood. I can make this myself of course, in fact, at least two books I have contain plans for one. I'm trying to pick out a good scribe, or cutter, to make the initial cuts for the channel before truing them. Will any of these choices suffice? I'm leaning towards no. 1 as I'm starting out and the price is right, plus it has many features that can be useful. Should I be looking for a completely other tool, or perhaps another place that will sell something very similar for less? I plan on ordering more from this company anyway so it isn't too much trouble to order this when I do that unless the price is way off.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50440&cat=1,42936
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42948&cat=1,42936

Consider this one too.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Binding+Tools&NameProdHeader=Schneider+Gramil

_________________
Keith Lally
http://krl-guitar-building.blogspot.com/

Having had to cut a couple channels by hand because my router system could'nt do it, I used the Sloane purfling cutter .. would have been nice to have two, one set for the binding depth, one for the binding width.

I have the marking gauge wheel type from LV, and cant say it would be all that good at cutting channels .. for one, it cant do inside curves as the 'fence' is flat ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Ian-
Basically the same advice you've gotten already: Buy (or make) a gramil for this job. A couple of books (Sloane, Middleton) have 'plans' for gramils, but you could figure out how to make one pretty easily by looking at the commercial versions online.

I've got the LV '3-in-one gauge' and I find that the adjustment/locking system is very poor- I certainly can't make 'micro' adjustments with it (needs 3 hands?). One of these days, I'll probably drill a hole in a wood block, tap for a locking bolt, to make a new 'fence' for mine.

Cheers
John

Alright guys thanks for the quick and helpful replies! I might take the splurge and go for the purfling cutter, as it's designed for doing this sort of thing anyway. I'll have to order that when I get my funky sandpaper! lol Just starting out and still livin' with the folks, so I'll buy the quality tools while I don't have to pay any rent.

Let us know how it goes. I would really like to learn this. I get a knot in my stomach everytime I think about firing up the table saw or router. Funny that we marvel that it can be done by hand.

The purfling cutter is mainly to scribe and mark the channels while the bulk of the wood removal is done with a chisel as can be seen here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8iZBACWSDQ&NR=1

I have cut all my guitars' binding and purfling ledges using a Schneider Gramil and chisel. I have a very small workshop with no room to store jigs, dust extraction units etc. Plus the family and I object to constant power tool noise.

It can be done. Just make sure all the blades are very sharp, and go easy on the first pass.