Official Luthiers Forum!

I will soon be binding the guitar I'm building and I'm trying to decide what adhesive to use. It's Carpatian spruce and EIR sides/back. For this build I will likely use Ivaroid binding and Herringbone purfling but in the future will likely use wood for bindings with herringbone or abalone for purfling.

What would you recommend for gluing the bindings and purflings? I see that LMI has a product called "Contact Adhesive for Binding (FCA). What are your thoughts about this product? LMI claims it is used by a lot of factories, has a fast tack time, sets up quickly, has less fumes, and was developed using combinations of 14 different woods and 28 different plastics and it worked well for all combinations. I would appreciate hearing your experiences and thoughts on this product as well as your recommendations.

Thanks!

_________________
Formerly known as Adaboy.......

We've used it in our kit-building classes and some repairs. Works fine on everything we've done but I'm not completely sure of the chemical makeup of the binding materials. Definitely worked well on ivoroid.

Rick
Running Dog Guitars

I have used it and it worked well on ABS and Celluloid nitrate.
The only thing is it comes in a jar as opposed to a tube,so you either have to brush it on (not fun) or transfer it to a squeeze bottle.

Use it, Like it. I draw it up in a 12cc syringe from the bottle and lay it on with an 18G needle. Glue maybe 5-6" at a time. Have plenty of paper towels handy. Does not seem to scrape too well afterwards so I usually block sand first to get rid of the cement excess and then scrape.
Terry

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Many of my students as well as I have used it and it works fine. Does exactly what it is supposed to do.

Thanks.

How does this glue compare to other options for cleanup etc.? Does this glue (or any of the other glues) cause the ivoroid or BWB binding to swell? If so, how should I adjust the channel cuts to allow for this? From what I've read, it's better/easier to scrape the sides/top/back down to the binding purfling than the other way around.

_________________
Formerly known as Adaboy.......

I usually rout about .010 over the binding width, and that seems to work well for me. I wipe off the excess with paper towels right away and block sand off the rest before scraping. If I don't the scraper seems to hop and grab on the cement residue and can damage the bindings. It does not seem to soften the binding as much as weld-on did but I still wait 24 hrs to take the tape off and another day before scraping back.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.