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Hi Guys

I'm in the process of spraying my current Bouzouki build with EM6000. I will leave it two weeks to cure. I've used EM6000 before with some very good results.

I always buff out the finish by hand, levelling with 6/800 and working through the grits up to Micro-Mesh 12000.

Previously I have always buffed 'with the grain' but I now know that this is not necessary. My question is, at what stage/grit do you start to buff against the grain or in swirls etc.

Any advice or buffing techniques from people who hand buff EM6000 will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

Mat

I can't answer that, I use power tools.... but I just have to say that is some BEAUTIFUL work!! Love it!

Mike h

ANYONE??

(Thanks Mike )

I have a fair amount of experience with EM6000, having finished 5 guitars with it. I don't buff by hand, though. I use a small pneumatic polisher with foam pads. I am happy to share my process, but not sure it will provide you much help.

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com

Matthew, I've only done one with the EM6000 (the one in my avatar). I sanded to P2000 then used Novus polishes (1 & 2, I think) to buff out by hand just using some old cotton T-shirt material. I didn't worry about going with the grain when using the Novus polishes but I did all of the sanding with the grain. I'm still developing my finishing chops so not sure how useful this is.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Ken - PM sent

Steve - Thanks for the response. Buffing with the grain can cause 'ridges'. I've seen plenty of shop guitars with ridges in the finish. It's not a huge problem - I just want to avoid them.

Thanks

I hadn't thought about ridges caused by buffing - Learn something new everyday.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I've read, and then had success doing, that once you are working in the finish it doesn't really matter what way you sand since there is no "grain" that you have to worry about scratching/splintering. There is also the advantage that if you shift the direction of your sanding scratches in the finish it is much easier to see when you have removed all the scratches from the previous grit. I have done this on the last 5 guitars (finished with EM6000) starting with leveling at 600 grit and then switching direction (45 or 90 degrees) with each sucessive grit and have found it much easier to gauge the progress. After about 1000 I move to a buffer so after that I can't speak, but before then I find it helpful to mix things up.

Kent

I had heard that switching directions made it easier, I will try that on the next one since I had trouble making sure I had removed the scratches from the previous grit.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I switch directions between grits, really helps make sure you get all the previous scratches out.

On a side note, I brush EM6000, and I find if I switch directions with each coat, it makes leveling easier too.

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Rob