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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:12 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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hey chris.my two centavos?
i like it better when the tuners come off the curve at as close to perpindicular as they can.
what i did with my default headstock is make the strings not angle off the nut so much.
pretty boring, but it works
whatever...
sorry about the missing string.
it broke, so time to re-do some things on that one.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:41 am 
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Hmm .. I would taper the headstock inwards at the tip so that you can keep your line ... same shape essentially, just the seven string version.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:41 am 
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Chris..I think you have to maintain consistancy or it looks like an afterthought. I spent a lot of time fiddling with mine to go 7-string....maintain the shape but stretch it, keep tuners perp to c'line, adequate string clearance while "exposure" of the buttons all about the same. I think you'd be better off keeping all perpendicular / equidistant from the edge and reduce the flare a bit as Tony mentions if clearance not enough. My 2 cents!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:41 am 
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Chris, I would recommend turning all the tuners so the keys follow the outline of the headstock profile.
This looks fine and is functional, in my opinion.
Not sure what it does to the rest of your design plan.
Keep in mind that the keys will seldom be aligned rotationally when in use anyways.
Nelson


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:10 pm 
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Agreed. Pull that top one right to the edge of the route-down. Then position the rest so the posts follow a nice smooth curve, and rotate them so the keys are perpendicular to the curve where they join it. Then shimmy things until it looks "right" :)

Of course, the other side should follow a similar style, to be more symmetrical.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:19 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Chris,
I do like it a lot. Only thing I'd do is line up that top tuner with all the others. Besides that I think you have a winner. [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:07 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I don't like one tuner worm shaft angled when the others are straight, or one tuner post out of line when the others are inline. Agree with Tony that you should taper the headstock so you can keep the straight line and shaft alignment.

I generally prefer to have tuner worm shafts perpendicular to the neck and parallel to each other. Perpendicular to the headstock edge (following the curve) is acceptable, although in that case the posts should be equidistant from the edge of the headstock instead of inline. But I think you need consistency for the whole set.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:53 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:28 pm 
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WRT to route down .. I would do both of these .. make the overall shape narrower, and then as well to get the tuner to fit, make the route down smaller (not as wide at the headstock end) on both sides ... now that I look at the G and B string tuners, I cant say I like they way one really sticks out (B) and the other doesnt (G).. looks weird to me - this would help with that too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:42 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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One more vote to have the keys follow the curved profile of the headstock....which may mean creating more of a taper toward the end of the headstock....and also maybe a subtler curve. I like the curve though. Very nice.

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