Official Luthiers Forum!

Not just the time spent polishing, but all the in between time as well?

5 leisurely days total. 4 days for the body...top, back and each side on separate days. 1 day for the neck.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

4-6 weeks (including the down time of course) from filled and egg wash sealed to the completed guitar. This usually includes making and polishing the bridge, as well as attaching it and set-up.
It's all about letting the polish dry and shrink between sessions which, more than anything, prevents imprinting problems on a new guitar and producing a very thin yet highly refined surface.

Haha, im starting to wonder.... this is my first time doing this and I have no idea if im 'done' or not!

Do you guys usually wait at least like an hour or so between bodying sessions?

So why is this so different from David LaPlante's 4 to 6 weeks ?

_________________
It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

I wait 1-2 hours between sessions and do as many sessions until it looks nice and lustrous. I started out by following Robbie's basic plan and found a few tricks and techniques along the way. It's worked for me but I'd love to know more about David's schedule and technique.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

The actual pore filling and polishing can be done in 1-2 weeks depending on how much arm resistance one has but David's approach sounds wiser to me. I heard some makers in Spain might spend up to 3 months for this process. The problem is that even if apparently well dry and reasonably solid, fresh shellac is very weak. A serious player, studying countless hours a day, only takes about a month (or even less) to put a hole right to the wood on the back and sides of the guitar where sweat builds up, even when using protective rags.

_________________
Build log

that sounds a bit scary ... i was planning to french polish #1, and am prepared for that finish being less tolerant of getting dinged & pick-marked etc ... but is it going to wear off just from being held & played? maybe a brushed on water based laquer a better option? (no spray equip)

_________________
If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason. - Jack Handey

Sweat does eat into FP finishes pretty readily. I touch up my player from time to time. Usually only takes a couple of sessions to renew it.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Here's a quick outline of my process. It employs both traditional and rather non-traditional aspects and materials.
Note that I have a "regimen" which is the sequence in which I do the various parts of the guitar and which contributes to the length of time that I've described but also contributes to the overall quality of the finish with the control that it imparts. I use no oil whatsoever and use straight pulls (parallel to the center line of the guitar) across the width of the instrument and along the circumference of the sides in my bodying sessions.

French Polishing for Guitar Makers: An Alternate Approach

Materials:
-Shellac flake (blond, amber etc.)
-Alcohol (denatured ethanol, 190 ethanol etc. )
-PLASTIC wide mouth containers for shellac, pad
-3M Gold Fre-Cut paper (LMI) in 320,400,600 grits
-Wonder rags (clean up, wipe down, pad covers,polish)
-twist ties
-raw cotton fiber fill
-Meguires #4 Heavy cut, #2 Fine cut and # 7 Glaze
-Foam Pad buffing wheel

Preparation:
1. Fill (LMI Micro Bead)
2. Egg Wash
3.“Spit“ coat Seal, top, back , sides, neck, peghead

“Bodying” Regimen:
1. Back, sides , heel
2. Top, peg head
3. Neck

“Bodying” Sequence:
1. Lightly thinned shellac, dry (overnight minimum 2-3 days preferred) sand back 320, repeat 2-3 times
2. Moderately thinned, dry (as above) sand back 400, repeat 1-2 times
3. Heavily thinned, dry (overnight) sand back 600, repeat
4. Glaze, extremely thin, “dry” pad

Polishing:
1.#4 lightly (!!) w/buffing pad
2. #2 hand
3. #7 hand

I've seen Davids finishes and they are beautiful.

F.P> takes time & patience to get them cured & looking great !

Mike

_________________
Mike Collins

David, this info is very timely, as I'm currently doing my 4th FP job. I'm reassured that you use LMI Micro Bead, as I'm also using it after not being able to make pumice work on Mad. rose.

I'm just wondering why you do the egg wash after micro bead?

Bart Hovis

I'm not knocking David's French polish technique, because his finishes are exceptional, but one thing to keep in mind is that he works, really, wet, for most of his application method, until the end. It makes a difference in the dry times between sessions. Milbuirn recommends letting it gas out for several hours between sessions, but he works dry. Big difference. David's finish is laid on with a wet muneca, then leveled after several sessions. Milburn rubs the muneca with only a few drops of alcohol and shellac until no vapor trail is seen, which means it is no longer applying shellac. He does no level sanding after any body sessions, and only uses the Meguires at the end of the process. They are, somewhat, different processes. Not saying one is better than the other, just different, like the difference between rubbing varnish and brushing varnish.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks Waddy for putting your finger on where my method differs from others.
Working "wetter" and in straight pulls is how I can keep the muneca moving and not sticking without oil. I'm never lapping anything but the immediately previous pull.
And as you mention, as I get closer to the end of the process I'm working very thinned and dry (vapor trail and all) similar to the traditional technique.

Bart, the egg wash is to prevent bleeding from the dark wood onto the light purflings when the alcohol thinned "spit coat" is applied.