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I am on number three which is a 000 which has Bubinga sides and back, I really like this stuff and was easy to bend,...My question is there any reason not to use Bubinga for the back brace strip and mahogany for the back braces instead of spruce ...will it affect the tonal qualities ??
The top will be Englemann spruce with spruce bracing..

Thanks

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MK5acoustics.com

The wood cab make braces but remember you are try to build strong and light. With Bubgina you will be adding more weight than spruce. Mahogany will make bracing but I don't like it . you don't the balance in the tonal quality like you do with spruce. Again the weight to strength ratio. Spruce has a higher ratio than the hardwoods .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

You should use the same wood for both braces and strip. Both mahogany and spruce will work fine. I prefer spruce for the added visual contrast and for the low weight. Mahogany would be maybe easier to work, and definitely easier to keep clean and clean looking. Especially the endgrain of spruce center strips catch dirt easily, should keep it well sealed with blond shellac.

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Build log

None at all. Several of use use cut off from the back for the back strip. I like the look.

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"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.

I'm with Steve on this. I like the look of a center strip that matches the back. Make sure it's thin (I go ~.060") and also make sure the grain runs cross ways. That's what it's for, a cross grain re inforcement patch.

Re, Mahogany braces. I do it on backs alot, especially on smaller guitars. I've got a BUNCH of scrap Mahogany left from necks. Mahogany is a little heavier, and not quite as stiff as Spruce. The weight should'nt be an issue(for the back braces). We're talking a few grams difference, but make sure they're still stiff enough.

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Thanks, I appreciate the responses. I am spending more time on the aesthetics of this guitar but didn't wan't to compromise tone..I thought I would try using x bracing on the back and wanted the wood to match the back, bubinga, and the kerfing , reverse mahogany, although next time I think I will try solid kerfing bent to shape, the reverse kerfing , at least for me, had a tendacy to break..right now the back is thicknessed to about .095 which seems to be still a little to thick..

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MK5acoustics.com