Official Luthiers Forum!

Last night I resolved myself to fix a mistake that I knew I wouldn't want to live with long term. This particular guitar is a gift for my brother in law. (He's been out of work for 18 months and is going back to college on a grant so he can't afford to replace the Martin he sold in the divorce.) When I glued up the back I was more concerned with getting a tight fit than orientation of the center back strip as this was the second time I'd installed the back. (Oops!) Well I cut my binding ledges last night and the off center back strip just had to go. I routed a wedge shape and intend to inlay a new rosewood center strip. The wedge at the neck is .31 wide and .61 wide at the tail. I'm thinking the best way to make this wedge is to nail a longer piece than the total length necessary of rosewood to a plywood carrier board and extend my wedge cut lines several inches past neck and tail positions. Cut one side of wedge to the inside of the blade from fence, then unnail from carrier board and move farther in and re-nail and cut measuring to the outside of the table saw blade, all the while making sure my wedge is supported along it's total length by the carrier board. Then remove wedge from carrier board and slide into guitar back. Once tight, trim off excess at both ends and glue, fill the nail holes with sawdust and CA, then plane and done. Anyone have a simpler method or am I on the right track to get a good fit and be safe at the same time?

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Bobby Masten

You don't need to nail it to a carrier board. Just use double sided tape and cut to the profile you need using a carrier board if necessary. (Is it really necessary or can you do without it?) Rather than make the wedge fit the opening, reverse your logic and make the slot fit the wedge. Cut the new wedge and draw a center line on it. Draw a center line on the back of the guitar, lay the new wedge over the back, align the center lines, tape the wedge in place so it doesn't shift, mark the edges carefully with a marking knife or exacto knife and you then will have the guides to rout out the old and install the new one. Best of luck.....

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Peter

Bobby: Gather you are doing this on a back that is attached to the sides.I would be more comfortable doing it with the back off the sides but you must feel OK attacking it this way. One thing you may already know but I'll point it out anyway. Tapers have a way of catching up with you very quickly. Leave lots of length for movement while you are fitting.Your measurements are to .010 but think you should be working to .001 and no doubt you are and the drawing is just rough measurements. Good luck and let us know how you make out. As an aside Bruce Sexauer use a tapered backstrip similar to this but not sure how or when he does it. He is very approachable and it may pay to talk to him. He hangs out at the UMGF and you can reach him there.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!