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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:04 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hey all,

I trimmed the excess off of a Honduras Rosewood backplate today. Honduras is some pretty splintery stuff, it seems. I had some minor tearout at the two widest spots on the lower bout when the laminate trimming bit passed these spots. Nothing that will matter after the rout for binding and purfling is done. I alway use climb cuts in the appropriate spots to try to mitigate this. After seeing what was going on I applied some CA to the back all the way around to try to help things. Just wondering what everybody does in this situation to stop tearout.

Here's a pic showing the very small tearout spots.

Chris.

Image


Last edited by cwood8656 on Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:27 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use the RoboSander and finish off with a hard sanding block continuing on with the block to true up the sides. I don't use the router as much any more.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:27 pm 
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Thanks Todd,

My first thought was that it was time for a new flush trimming bit. Lucky for me the tearout wasn't worse.

Never have tried a RoboSander. (yet)

Chris.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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there is also a trick with tape . Did you climb cut or rout?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:32 pm 
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John,

I did both climb cut and rout, depending on where I was on the back plate. Didn't try tape.

Chris.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:43 pm 
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John, what is the tape trick?
Thanks, Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:30 am 
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i use a spiral downcut bit in my laminate trimmer with the adjustable guide bearing that came with it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:58 am 
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Chris: One nice set of Honduran.One thing I find that helps when cutting binding channels is to make the first cut shallow. Try about .025 to .030 thou. and then cut to your full depth. Also,your bits can never be too sharp.....!!!
Tom

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:17 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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if you place some tape with the grain in the fragile areas this helps to support grain and help to avoid tear out . Todd's advice will work but you can nibble these areas down with the router. If you climb cut you must be very aware of the feed rate as you can cause compression fracture and routing can tear things out from the attack angle of the cutter.
Flush , downward or upcuts will all do this if you exceed the feedrate . I have a vid on You tube that discusses this . http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... g+jig&aq=f the tape is mentioned as are a few more techniques . hope this info helps

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:29 am 
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Koa
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All of these tricks will work(most of the time)....for me, on splintery stuff I have been sanding flush, it's quick, easy, and so far fool-proof.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:39 am 
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It doesn't help for flush trimming the back, but for cutting the binding and purf channels you can scribe the back with a gramil and the sides with a round marking gauge before routing.

-jd


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Thanks everyone. All these responses are very helpful.

Chris.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:23 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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train termites

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