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 Post subject: Back Removal
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:31 pm
Posts: 1682
First name: Kevin
Last Name: Looker
City: Worthington
State: OH
Zip/Postal Code: 43085
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
In my haste, I glued the back on number 4 without carefully checking how I profiled the sides. I later discovered the back side of the neck block is slightly lower than the top corners of the upper bout. This resulted in a nice little dip. gaah

There's never time to do it right but there's always time to fix it later, right?

So it's time to remove the back & do it right. I glued the linings to the sides with HHG but glued the back with Titebond. I liked the quick grab feature of HHG for the linings but didn't think I could pull it off on a bigger glue up like the back.

I've read that heat & a putty knife work but how do you typically get it started? Have I created another problem by using HHG & Titebond - will the hide glue let go at a lower temp than the Titebond?

Thanks,
Kevin Looker

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 Post subject: Re: Back Removal
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:30 am
Posts: 1792
Location: United States
If the bindings are on, rout them off precisely.
Use a clothe iron to warm up the back edges (where it is glued to the linings), I usually start at the end block but it is not important. Work by 4" sections, move your iron constantly, you do not want to burn the wood. When your section is hot enough use a polished flexible pallet knife to slip under the back, slowly. Make sure you do not gouge the wood. When your section is off, move on to the next section. Clean off the glue goo on your knife before using it again. Go slow, it should take about 10mn to remove the back. Spend a bit more time heating the neck block, but keep moving.
To remove the linings (if you really have to), the best way I found is to use a 1/2" chisel, followed by a thumb plane and block with sandpaper. Find a way to secure the body in the mould in a vice for example before removing the linings, you want you two hands to guide the chisel.
Good luck, having to remove a back happened to everybody.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Back Removal
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:31 pm
Posts: 1682
First name: Kevin
Last Name: Looker
City: Worthington
State: OH
Zip/Postal Code: 43085
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks Laurent. I never thought of using a clothes iron duh

Luckily I haven't even routed for the bindings yet.

When I glued the back on, the RH was around 40%. After 2 weeks of rain, it's off the charts and the back has swelled which makes the dip much more noticeable.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.


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 Post subject: Re: Back Removal
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 11:14 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 7:30 am
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Don't reglue your back on the rim when the RH is high.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Back Removal
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 11:42 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:52 am
Posts: 1289
City: Lawrence
State: Kansas
Zip/Postal Code: 66047
Status: Amateur
One other thing.
NEVER EVER use your wife's clothes iron.
I know this from first hand experience

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