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 Post subject: Desk to bench conversion
PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:15 am 
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Koa
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Yeah I know, a bench thread beehive. My biggest concern is a non dulling blade safe top.

So I have this really heavy (particle board) and rigid desk that I want to turn into an island type bench 30" X 48". I need to cut it shorter, raise it 6" and top it with something because I don't like working on formica. I'd love to top it with some maple boards I have. If I just screw the boards down to the desk I know I'll get some buckling in humid weather and spaces in dry. Is there a way to float a flatsawn wood top on to this desk?

Right now is just not a good time to spend 200 dollars on nice laminated bench top. I considered making a 12" width laminated top with the wood I have and the rest particle board and hardboard. I can even run 12" through my planer.

If I just cover it with masonite, how do you attach it? Million screws or glue? I would like to make it replaceable if I go this route.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:26 am 
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How about screwing a piece of 3/4" birch shop ply down?
It runs about $50 around here.
You could use the off cut for jigs and stuff.
Save the maple for something else..


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:33 am 
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Koa
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I'd be afraid it would splinter too easily. I could be wrong and it seems like it may otherwise be a good option.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:42 am 
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Plywood won't splitter too easily. Edge with hardwood. Screw it from bottom if you can. Coat it with epoxy resin. It will last a long time.
L.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:51 am 
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Koa
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Plywood it is then. Edged with hardwood. I think I like Flippo's oil finish as it can be periodically redone pretty easily.
Thank you all.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:08 am 
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I put flooring grade hard poly on my plywood. Easy to sand and re coat too. Makes cleaning the top very easy. I find cabinet grade A-C at Home Depot for $24 a sheet hard to resist. Not as nice as Baltic, but I don't think I could tell the difference when working on the poly coated A grade surface of the A-C.

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:09 am 
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I'm not talking about laying a thick coating of resin. Warm the resin up and spread thin. Let it soak in a bit then squeegee it off. It will soak in and toughen the wood, hold the fibers together and reduce the issue you were worried about.
It "can be periodically redone pretty easily." but won't need to unless you are rebuilding engines on the bench.
L

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:17 am 
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I like to top with 1/4" melamine, it is thick enough to countersink screws so it is removable, pretty tough, cheap, white, and non stick.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:12 pm 
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Koa
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Wait a minute do you just mean to use epoxy. For some reason the resin part confused me. I have some that I use for inlaying. Probably more than eneough to do this top. I don't really want a hard surface. I occasionally like to cut stuff right on the bench and I'd rather cut the bench than dull my knife blades. That's why I don't like formica or melamine. Maybe I should just use a cutting board. duh I'll look into it though. Where can I get it?

Link Van Cleave wrote:
I'm not talking about laying a thick coating of resin. Warm the resin up and spread thin. Let it soak in a bit then squeegee it off. It will soak in and toughen the wood, hold the fibers together and reduce the issue you were worried about.
It "can be periodically redone pretty easily." but won't need to unless you are rebuilding engines on the bench.
L

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