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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:53 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
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I understand that ziricote can be prone to splitting. Is it suitable for a bridge?
Thanks,
Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:06 pm 
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Koa
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I have not had any problems with it. I like it better than rosewood or ebony for looks and sound. Not as oily either, so better glueing is a plus there as well. Makes a nice looking fretboard too. ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:26 pm 
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I once saw a guitar by Sergei de Jonge with a Ziricote bridge at the first Newport show. It was stunning.
It can't be to bad if he used it...
The cracking seems to be more of an issue with thin plates like backs and sides...and those dark grey/black lines seem to be the weakest elements.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:15 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I've used it several times as a bridge with absolutely no problems, in fact when I did some wave transmission test some years ago, ziricote was right up in the same class as BRW, Madrose and Macassar for its low damping quality.

As with all bridge woods make sure that you use wood tending towards rift sawn.

Colin

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:27 pm 
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Colin S wrote:
I've used it several times as a bridge with absolutely no problems, in fact when I did some wave transmission test some years ago, ziricote was right up in the same class as BRW, Madrose and Macassar for its low damping quality.
Hey, Colin, if you don´t mind some questions: did you use it on a classical? I thought Ziricote had high dampening (never handled it myself).
Colin S wrote:
As with all bridge woods make sure that you use wood tending towards rift sawn.
Would you care to elaborate on this? i thought i was lucky my bridge stock was mostly quartered (not 90º, mind you).

thanks in advance,
miguel.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:04 am 
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Koa
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I've used it and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. It was heavier than what I usually use (brw or mrw) but the guitar sounded great. Here is a pic:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:37 am 
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mqbernardo wrote:
Colin S wrote:
As with all bridge woods make sure that you use wood tending towards rift sawn.
Would you care to elaborate on this? i thought i was lucky my bridge stock was mostly quartered (not 90º, mind you).
OK, after thorough searching the OLF archives it turns out that quarter sawn will make splitting under the saddle easier, as Chris pointed out. Always learning.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:58 am 
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Koa
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I've been using it recently, and like it quite a bit. I haven't been using it for long enough to come across any issues if any are to be found.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:27 pm 
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The only bridge ziricote bridge I made cracked. I don't remember the grain direction, but it was a pretty standard 1" pyramid bridge, drop-in saddle, 12 mm string height. To my knowledge, none of my other 50 or so various rosewood or ebony guitar bridges have cracked. FWIW...

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:07 pm 
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For those of us around when it first came on to the market (LMI I think) it was known informally as 'Mexican Crackwood'
So, some caution is advised, but some people use rift-cut grain on all bridges.


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