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So, here's the situation:
Since I started building (8 yrs ago) I've always used hhg for joining tops, bracing, and bridges. Lately, though, I've been using it for more and more things
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On the instrument that I'm currently working on I decided to use it for the fb. I've never had an issue with a fb glue-up in the past (have used titebond, LMI white, and epoxy) so didn't really think much of it. I got the pieces nice and warm, brushed plenty of glue, got everything clamped-piece of cake.

Evidently I was a little too nonchalant with the process. As I was cleaning up squeezeout I realized that one of the clamps wasn't down tight and that there was actually a 2 inch gap along one edge of the fb, nearly 1mm at its widest point.

I heated the fb up and dripped some warm water into the gap thinking that I could reactivate the glue and clamp it down but it didn't really seem to work. To compound the issue, I got the fb hot enough that the binding glue joint began to show in that area (glued with titebond). So, I've decided that the fb needs to come off, get cleaned up, rebound, and reglued.

I've never separated a hide glue joint this big, though, and I've got a feeling it's going to be a bear (95% of it is glued down tight). Anyone have any tips for making removal easier? I figure I'll heat the whole thing up, drip some warm water into the gap and use a hot palette knife.

Thanks,
William

That's how I do it. It takes patience and it never comes off completely clean. It always seems to take a divot here and there. I heat the fingerboard with an iron and work a very thin knife between the board and the neck adding a few drops of water into the gap as I go along. As long as I wait for the moisture and the heat to do the work, I don't have to force anything.

If you can pull the board within 12 hours of gluing it, it will come off a lot easier. After a couple of days, it will be fully cured.

I/ve used this technique to remove ebony vln fingerboards, but I use a small furniture repairers heating enclosure, holds abt 4 thin parting knives ground smooth, I use a wedging action by working the knives from one corner of the fb and another knife in the other corner to slowly work my way up the fb.If the knives are too hot they will scorch the fb. I make my knives from salvaged cheapo kitchen knives ground thin on a sanding belt. With the blade edge rolled over vy smooth and thin like a spatula.Some repairers use a drop of alcohol on the knife instead of water , so as not to raise the grain on the fb or swell up the fb and neck.