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I'm going to try reversed linings on my next build. To try and keep it in one piece, how do you adjust it for the vertical variations especially on the back without breaking it?

Thanks
Richard

I had the hardest time with that, I gave up and switched back to regular triangular linings which I install in 4-5" long pieces. If the reversed linings weren't breaking, they were not flush against the side and I'd get a big gap at the waist. I haven't read about any other methods to convince me to try it again (but I hope one gets posted in this thread!).

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I did my first reverse kerfings recently.
I wet the kerfings in hot water and spring clamped them to the outside of the sides in the mold (after sanding the rims top and bottom) persuading them to conform to the height variation (with a little excess while I was at it), then let them dry.
Not my idea, just picked it up from someone else.
Worked not too bad, but use strong spring clamps!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I put short strips between full height side braces, but if I was going for continuous strips, I'd just glue them proud of the edge and shave them down to match the dome, so only a little gets cut off at the waist, but a lot gets cut off at the head/tail blocks. Most linings sold by luthier suppliers are rather tall for my taste anyway, and could easily stand to have 1/8~3/16" cut off at the highest points.

A uniform taper from the tail to the head of the body helps with this as well. Versus generally level from the tail to just behind the waist, then a sharp taper from the waist to the head...

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On small waisted guitars sometimes the kerf isn't wide enough to make the bend. It will touch or pinch at the back of the kerf. If you relieve this with a chamfer on one or two kerfs it can make the bend. Check next time and see if this is what is happening.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

It's been a while since my last attempt, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't the kerfs getting closed up in the bend, it was more an issue of getting it to curve in the tall axis in order to stay flush with the sides.

I like the idea of pre-clamping it in place and using moisture and heat to help coax things into shape, might have to give that a try next time around. I wonder if it'd be possible to pre-bend it the long way on a pipe bender at the waist? Or maybe it's time to give it up and buy some of Kevin Ryan's A4 linings.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I bend my reverse-kerfed linings in a Fox-style bender. I've not experienced any issue with getting them to lay flat against the side & to follow the longitudinal contour.

I'm going to try some reverse linings for the first time and do plan on bending them in my bender first to keep them from breaking. I just hpoe i can get a flat fit on the inside edge to the side after bent without having to camfer the edges.

Just did some today. I have my bending iron heated up, wet the kerfed lining, and shape it on the pipe and dry clamp it in while still wet. After doing the other side remove the first and glue it.
I agree with Todd, minor height variations don't bother me.

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