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As most IRW fingerboard blank are actually tapered, how to do you go about fret slotting such that the fret slots are perpendicular to the center line?

Well I want to use IRW fingerboard for my current build and the fingerboard is tapered.
I will be using the LMI fingerboard slotting jig.
The only way I can think of is to draw a center line and using eye / ruler etc to ensure the fingerboard is stuck parallel to the reference edge.

Does anyone have a jig of some sorts to improve upon the accuracy?
Thanks

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Sen CL Goh
http://senguitar.blogspot.com

I've always slotted prior to tapering the board. If it's already tapered, I think your plan is correct, you have to line it up.

I do it the same exact way I do any fingerboard. I joint one side, cut the other side on the table saw and slot. I don't know why they come tapered, but however my wood (any wood) comes the very first things I do to it before working it is square it up.

I taper all of my fingerboards before slotting. That way I can use the offcuts to bind it and it's an exact match. To slot, simply draw a center line on the board and angle your table saw miter gauge until the center line is square to the blade. At least that's how I do it.

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
&
http://ensorguitars.com

If you're using LMI's templates, simple draw a center line on the template and a center line on your blanks, then line them up before attaching.

I also tapper the fingerboard before cutting the slots.
I made a mitter box that has a sliding MDF board inside (it fits pretty tight) on which I glue the FB on with a little drop of titebond on each end.
the sliding board has a center line well marked and the FB center line must be aligned well when glued.
then I go on cutting and moving the FB thru all its length and after that I deglue it inserting a hot thin blade on the joint. it comes off easily.



hope it helps!
Bruno

Yeah thanks to all.
It certainly gives me a good idea how to go about doing it.

I like the idea of marking the center line on the template and matching it to the fingerboard blank's center line. (Thanks James!)

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Sen CL Goh
http://senguitar.blogspot.com

It saves wood. I tend to buy the shortest, narrowest fingerboards I can use, because it saves wood and my money.
I slot my fingerboards on a table saw, using the miter gauge. I like to taper them first...before thicknessing or slotting. That way, the waste piece can actually be used for something. With tapered ones, I set the miter gauge to make the slots perpendicular to the center line.

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John