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I glued the top on, closing the box on the om guitar I'm building. Unfortunately I hadn't properly radiused the rims. I thought I had but after the glue up there was a gap between the top and the rims.

So I decided to remove the top using an clothes iron and a palette knife.

by heating up the top over the sides and heating the knife up I got most of the top separated from the sides. However, there are 2 big issues

1) the braces remain glued into the pockets in the kerfed lining

2) In places the palette knife split into the spruce top, instead of separating the glue joint. In one place the knife came through the top. If I can get the top off without destroying it I'm pretty sure I can repair it enough.


This build is a learner for me. I've decided to complete it despite many mistakes made just to get the practice of building down again. This is the second acoustic I've built the first being a long time ago at a guitar building school. Any help much appreciated

Stefan

Honestly I would jigsaw the top off and start over with a fresh top. In most situations when a top is removed it is to replace it and not to reuse it. Most times that because of severe damage.

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Another day, another dollar.

+1 Top thickness, graduation and bracing are the most important factors in how a guitar ultimately sounds, so think of this turn of events as an opportunity to make an entirely new top, with the experience and lessons you'll accumulate in the process, without having to build a whole guitar. It's a bonus!

This could prove an invaluable learning experience. The top is basically free as I understand it and being held by the bracing. What type of glue did you use? Will your bindings be taller than the depth of your brace pockets plus the thickness of the top? Small slits can be made with a razor saw or a dremil with a cut-off wheel at the bottom of the pockets from outside and a knife used in conjunction with heat and maybe a little water to pop the braces loose. As long as your bindings are going to be taller than where you must slit the sides all should be OK in the end. You will most likely need to replace some sections of kerfing at each pocket due to cutting into them to gain access. Double check and see that you have not loosened the ends of any braces from the top itself as well.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

+1 on what Brian said. If you used normal Titebond it should not be a too big problem.

Rather than cut slits I would drill some 0.5 mm holes through the sides at the location of the brace edges and where these holes later will be covered by the binding, or just chisel away the small side portions in question.

Are there brace ends in the waist area? If so your heat source could be steam (just shoot at those little drilled holes) and/or a temperature adjustable heat gun at 120°C - 150°C (150°F - 300°F) and low air stream velocity. Pay attention to not heat up too much other areas (the top itself, the back linings area). Before re-topping you might want to replace at least the portions of kerfed lining that got heated up a lot.

For repairing the top where the knife split it or even protruded, it will be best to use fish glue or HHG and some nice clamping cauls. Using Titebond for this task would show on the top surface.

Good luck!