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This stuff is super oily,so I`m going to sand the areas to be glued to 120 grit.Then I`m going to clean the areas with Acetone.And then I`m going to use regular Tite Bond.Is this going to work? First time gluing Cocobolo.

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Wotcha gluing to what?
Bridges/backs/bindings/top to sides?
Freshly scraped may be better than sanded?
Maybe test gluing would be the best way to check - I have heard warnings against washing with acetone before glue joints.
I understand it can draw oils back to the surface.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I'd use epoxy for the back joint, then titebond for the braces, etc. Cocobolo is the most diffucult wood to glue that I've come across...!

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

I`m ready to glue the neck and tail block.I remember Todd saying that he had been successful using tite bond.Not sure what he was gluing to what though.

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

I did some experimenting with this some time ago. As far as I can tell, a freshly planed or scraped joint seemed to be best. That said, even gluing it without doing anything to it seemed to work as long as the joint was tight. I can't explain why people have had trouble with cocobolo.

My impression when I was playing was that wiping with acetone didn't really do anything but smear it around. Maybe someone with more experience will weigh in. I usually only use it on headstock veneers, and I don't even use it there anymore.

I was using Titebond, btw.

Freshly planed surface and titebond, no problems.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Fish glue also works well on Cocobolo. I've used that a few times on the back joint and blocks when gluing Cocobolo.

There is very mixed opinions about using acetone on Cocobolo. I know it has been discussed here before. As Colin said some people are of the opinion that this is a bad thing because it can possibly draw more oils to the areas that have been cleaned. I'm of the view that a fresh planed or scraped (or even sanded depending on the type of joint) surface is always the best choice for any glue joint.

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

I have found that a freshly planed joint either by hand or jointer is the best. Joint it then glue it. Don't let it sit for a day before gluing. And regular titebond glue works well. I found the same technique applies to Padauk wood...Mike

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Another day, another dollar.

Thanks Guys.I`ll stay away from the acetone.And used planed or scraped joints.I`ll use epoxy on the back joint , Titebond for other joints.

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

I've built more guitars with cocobolo than any other wood, and I've not found anything better than polyurethane glue for the back's joint. For the rest of the construction, as others have stated, freshly planed or scraped(15 minutes or less) and Titebond or HHG. Poly glue if you really want to be sure it'll hold forever, or if you have a really, really oily/waxy piece, but the foaming can be a PITA to cleanup; though it can be done, even for braces and all....

No acetone or other solvents. Test it on a scrap if you wish to see for yourself what happens; the acetone brings MORE oil to the surface!

What brand of polyurethane glue are you using? For clean up scraper and sand?

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

ProBond(Elmer's?). Sometimes re-labeled as "Ultimate".

Scraper, chisel, etc..., after it has dried.

Would you recommend Titebond for Cocobolo binding?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

I usually use Cocobola for back strips and bindings on EIR guitars, and I've had no issues gluing them with either CA or fish glue - no other experience to offer.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

I have used this for gluing up 2 piece electric bodies of padauk and I preferred this brand over gorilla because I believe it expanded less then the gorilla glue. I have to order it online now since the local home centers no longer carry this brand and carry nothing but gorilla brand.

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Another day, another dollar.

For the back joint I used Titebond. Just after shooting the edges I wiped the edges down with Naptha until the rag was almost clean, then let the Naptha dry, usually just a minute or two, then glue up. It works fine. If using an oil/oil-varnish/wiping varnish finish it's also a good idea to wipe Coco thoroughly with Naptha before applying the first coat of finish or it will never dry.

As many have said, Acetone will simply slurry around the oils. Using alcohol is best as it will actually clean the pores out and remove the oils. We use Methyl Alcohol on cocobolo as well as rosewoods before gluing them. Titebond is used in our shop and everything holds together. If you're paranoid do a wash of methyl alcohol as well as a wash of naptha, Then you'll be right as rain!

My experiments have always worked best with a clean, fresh, and well fitted joint.

Sanding or scraping are pretty much equivalent but there is one very large caveat: a sanded joint isn't 'clean' again unless you've blown all the dust off the surface and out of the pores. Always hit sanded joints with compressed air at close range to clean off the sticky dust, as the dust is a much more attractive target than the wood so far as glue is concerned.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

It's not the long run that's the problem. If it's a good joint, it lasts. If it's not, it fails pretty quickly.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon