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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:20 pm 
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Koa
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Hi.
I plan to build an L-00 from the Grellier plans.
The plan has measurements of the depth of the body at the neck block and tail block, but there is no measurement for the length of the sides before bending?
Ho do I determine how long the unbent sides must be in order to end up with a body length and depth measurements that conform to the plan?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:43 pm 
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If you use an outside mold or have a masonite/plexiglass/whatever half-body template, you can just stick a strip of masking tape along it and then peel it off and measure the length.

But since I use paper templates and no molds, it would be nice if I could find a quick and easy method of measuring the curve length. You can step along the line approximately one inch at a time using a ruler, but it's a pain, and not particularly accurate. Perhaps you could approximate some fairly long runs as circular arcs, and work out a formula to calculate the arc length using the linear distance between two points on the curve, and the distance of the center point of the curve from that line.

I also need to start keeping records of the original length of my sides, and the length of the offcuts after bending and trimming to fit. That way I'd at least know the length for the shapes I've built before.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:45 pm 
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One way is to lay a piece of string following the side on the plan view. Add a couple of inches or more to the length measured with the string.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:46 pm 
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The side profile and length is drawn on your plan. It is that strange shape that has the bridge profile and the ends of The back braces drawn in it. For what it's worth, I like to bend my sides full width and trim the profile after. If you have your mold, you can run a strip of masking tape along the Inside and mark the center seams at the heel and tail as well as the waist. Then you peel it off and have the side length and waist location. . .

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:56 pm 
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bThanks guys for the replies.
Bryan, boy do I feel silly. I spent so much time looking at the bracing profiles I literally did not see the "box" they were in, or that it is clearly marked "side template".
DOH!
duh

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 2:05 am 
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A tailors tape can be a useful shop item as well...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:18 am 
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I use the roll up paper type measuring tape that seamstresses use.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:42 am 
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I'm chuckling to myself, because I've tried every one of these methods, and also walked a pair of dividers around the drawing. And I always thought to myself: "I wonder how everyone else does this?" I do agree with the idea of cutting the sides long. Seems to me that it makes them a bit easier to bend (I do that on a pipe) and it leaves a little margin for error, too.
Patrick


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:16 am 
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Koa
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Yeah, leave 'em a bit long. I use a 3/16" wide "keychain" tape measure, but have also used one of those flexible 4' tailors tape that IKEA give away. (Always have one of those in my wallet!)

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:05 am 
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Darrel Friesen wrote:
One way is to lay a piece of string following the side on the plan view. Add a couple of inches or more to the length measured with the string.


+1 [:Y:] Or a piece of copper wire from a 14-3 strip of electrical wire works great . you can bend it and it will hold shape then flatten out to measure

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:52 am 
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Asome! Lots of ways to do the job. Thanks, all of you.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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String works for me. Just remember to add a few inches to cut off.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:28 pm 
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i use IKEA measuring tapes, brought a bunch of them last time i went there.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:40 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:40 am 
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I bend on a pipe by hand so I like them longer. That way when I start on the upper bout, my hands are a little farther away from the hot pipe and you can get a smoother even bend. Also, sometimes the ends are a little crack prone depending on how the wood has been stored or bumped around during the thinning process. I got a rubber ruler at wally world for 1.00 Handy for lots of curvy applications.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:35 am 
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meddlingfool wrote:
A tailors tape can be a useful shop item as well...



Oh yeah. :) I have one and jealously guard it.

Mike


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