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 Post subject: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:43 am 
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Koa
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Is anyone gluing up their neck laminations with fish glue? Or HHG?

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:43 am 
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I've used fish glue for several neck lams and head plates. It worked fine. I use small metal pins to index the head plates so they don't slide around when I clamp it. When I do neck lams I usually only put a sheet of contrasting veneer in the center.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:58 am 
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I use fish glue for this all the time.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:59 am 
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I used HHG for all part... it worked fine :P


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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 4:10 pm 
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How many laminations are we talking about ? If It's more than two and you want to glue up everything all one time, I'd say fish glue.
If you saw the Robbie O'Brien videos with Jose Romanillos, he glued a block of wood to his floor a number of years ago, and it's still well
secured.


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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:52 pm 
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Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:18 am 
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Alain Moisan wrote:
Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?


I've had some minor cold creep with AR/PVA laminated necks and was hoping I could avoid that with fish glue.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:48 am 
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I would guess that HHG would work well as long as you could get it clamped up fast enough. I like to use PU glue since this is a joint that I don't ever expect to have to reverse. It can be a bit messy, but since at that point it is just a rough neck blank it is no big deal.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:53 am 
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I've used Titebond to laminate necks for years, the first is over ten years old & holding fine.
Not sayin' it's the best, just what I've used successfully.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:03 pm 
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Thanks Ken and Rodger.

I've laminated four necks recently for 3 classicals and one flamenco. I was starting to wonder if I might have shot myself in the foot with using Titebond!

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Last edited by Alain Moisan on Mon Dec 03, 2012 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:55 pm 
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I have laminated a number with LMI White without issue.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:40 pm 
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Ken Franklin wrote:
Alain Moisan wrote:
Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?


I've had some minor cold creep with AR/PVA laminated necks and was hoping I could avoid that with fish glue.


Hi Ken, how did that creep show up? I would have thought that, since the glue lines are perpendicular to the stress, there would be little reason for creep. Maybe I'm missing the question.

Millions of scarf joints have been made with AR/PVA glue.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:00 pm 
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I'd be a little surprised to see that joint creep, too. Did it happen on multiple necks?
Could it possibly be that the glue line was a tad on the thick side and you're just seeing finish sink at the glue line?


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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:55 am 
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The creep showed in the finish on glue lines in the heel. No structural failure just something I don't like to see.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:19 am 
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I did have creep once with titebond. I use a bolt-on neck with a five piece lamination.

The bolt insert was in the three center laminates and since I slope the shoulders of the neck 5 degrees, the bearing surface of the neck is the outer edges of the neck. I think I over tightened this one. When I did, it popped. The laminates, just in the heel cap area moved.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:37 am 
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I used fish now hide for this. Hide is easy to clamp by using the gobar deck. I glue one piece at a time, I feel there is less chance for tensions building up if each face is jointed very well each time. I can't really be sure i can could sand or plane a thin strip truly flat, but of course it works once it is attached to the solid outer piece.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:45 pm 
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Two questions. Wouldn't epoxy be a natural for neck laminating?

Secondly, and I hope this will fit within this thread, what is the simple science of laminating for a neck? I have some 3/4+ walnut stock and love the idea of making a walnut neck to go with the walnut back and sides but really don't understand the best grain strategy for lamination. Is Walnut stable enough to simply laminate 2 or three pieces ina way that looks good or should grain be reversed, quartered etc.? I'll see if i can post a pic of the walnut i thinking about using for the neck.

Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:58 pm 
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I build a sort of hybrid laminated/scarf joint neck, it works great for starting with 3/4" boards.
Here's some photos of how I do it.
Attachment:
IMGP3159.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3162.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3166.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3181.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3188.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3190.JPG

Attachment:
IMGP3209.JPG

So that's my mini-tutorial on laminated necks.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:12 pm 
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Thank you so much for taking the time Roger. A bit more complex than my skills and tools will allow but I will definitely take something from your tutorial.

I've seen one piece Hog necks all the time but one piece Walnut? With the stock I have? I'll probably lam 3 pieces with the grain running opposite to each other to add to the stability. Don't want to end with a neck that wants to move for sure.

Epoxy anyone?

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 Post subject: Re: Neck Lams
PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:57 am 
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Actually it's not that difficult and requires very few tools, the only cuts that require any precision are the scarf angles on the outside pieces, the rest you can use the already finished faces of your 3/4" board. A bandsaw is nice, but you could just as easily use a sabre saw.
It's a little more complicated than a regular scarf joint, but not any more difficult to build.

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