Official Luthiers Forum!

Solely owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Mon Mar 08, 2021 11:02 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:57 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:44 pm
Posts: 706
First name: Wendy
Last Name: W
State: Arizona
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Anybody ever add side purfling after the binding has already been glued in? If so, how do you cut the channel?
Thanks, Wendy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:59 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 1388
First name: Zeke
Last Name: McKee
City: Goodlettsville
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37070
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
seems like a lot of uneccessary work to add it after binding is in. is there a reason you want to do binding first?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:05 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:44 pm
Posts: 706
First name: Wendy
Last Name: W
State: Arizona
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I didn't choose to do binding first. I just decided, after the binding was done, that I wished I had added another line of purfling. Just wondered if anyone does that. Seems like I saw a purfling cutter somewhere that would but a slot below the binding.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:27 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:04 am
Posts: 773
First name: Peter
Last Name: Fenske
City: Leeds
State: Yorkshire
Country: Uk
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
That's how it's done on violins. You use the hand purfling cutter with two knives in and then a tiny little chisel to scrape it out.

Edit: sorry, didn't realise you were asking about side purfling, but that method should still work.

_________________
"I am always doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it."
Pablo Picasso

https://www.facebook.com/FenskeGuitars


Last edited by PeterF on Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:32 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:01 pm
Posts: 1883
Location: UK
I don't but I have done it that way in the past. It's the method that Romanillos used (at least in his early days). I used a scratch stock and inlaid it to a depth of around 1 mm. The advantage is that it covers any slight gaps between binding and the rib. The disadvantage is that it's more time consuming.
I haven't used the method in a long time. It's much easier to add the side purfling to the binding.
On my most recent Guitar I've formed the binding channel by leaving the linings proud (by a set amount) of the rib edge. It automatically forms the binding channel and gives a true edge for the side purfling to seat on. I've never seen this method in any of the books but I now know that there are a few other makers who use it. Bit of a light bulb moment. Not so important if you use a power tool/router to form the channel though.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:47 pm 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:42 pm
Posts: 581
Location: United States
First name: Tom
Last Name: Rein
City: Saline
State: Michigan
Focus: Build
I have added side purflings in the way you ask about. An inexpensive marking gauge that uses a drill bit of the correct diameter ground to a chisel edge makes a great scraper. It is a PITA, but doable if you are so inclined.

_________________
Stay with the happy people.
--Reynolds Large


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:26 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 3:56 pm
Posts: 172
Location: United States
First name: Dave
Last Name: Bertoncini
City: Sun City West
State: AZ
Zip/Postal Code: 85375
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
This is what I have used

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Rout%2FShape%2FDrill&NameProdHeader=Side+Cutting%2FPurfling+Tool


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:07 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 10:03 am
Posts: 6676
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
I think it would just be easier (& faster) to rout off the binding and redo it.

_________________
My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:18 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:52 am
Posts: 1388
First name: Zeke
Last Name: McKee
City: Goodlettsville
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37070
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Rod True wrote:
I think it would just be easier (& faster) to rout off the binding and redo it.

^^^^what he said^^^^^


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:24 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:44 pm
Posts: 706
First name: Wendy
Last Name: W
State: Arizona
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks Dave, I was looking for that tool today and could not find it on LMI's site.

Michael, when you leave the linings proud for the bindings, do you profile for the radius of the back and sides first and then install the linings? How do you keep the linings evenly proud so that the bindings are a consistent height all around the perimeter?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:15 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:01 pm
Posts: 1883
Location: UK
I fit the Linings without a profile.

Image

Image

I use the little stepped block of wood to set the depth (not the best photo of it). Fish glue gives you time to apply the glue and adjust the depth of the linings as the spring clamps go on. It's better to have them a touch higher rather than a touch lower. They can always be planed down to whatever the depth gauge says.
I then use a little apron plane and tilt it very slightly to form the profile. If that sounds a little imprecise you can always use a sanding form as shown in the pic. - it's the exact profile as the domed soundboard.
Once the Soundboard or Back is glued the overhang has to be trimmed flush back to the Linings. Chisel and/or thumb Planes or a Router if you use power tools.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: bftobin and 24 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com