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oval soundhole
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:11 pm 
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Well I was using my new LMI fret slotting system and it was all going nicely... until I noticed I some how cut a slot right in between the third and fourth fret [headinwall] [headinwall] [headinwall] Frankly I don't really know how this happened (I think the pic didn't go in the slot, but I just locked down the fretboard and slotted without checking) but I've been trying to figure out how and or if I can save this board. It's going to have binding any way, so I'm not concerned about the edge of the fretboard, but how might I "fix" this mistake? I was thinking of doing some sort of inlay, but then thought that it might just look like some position markers that are in the wrong place.

Any ideas or advice is greatly welcome!

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theguitarwhisperer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:22 pm 
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That's not a mistake, that's a "microtone"!

Put a few more in.....

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Rod True
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:39 pm 
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How thick is the board?

Here's what I'd probably do (to save it that is....and not toss it)

I'd fill each of the slots with a sliver and glue them in. If you have some room to sand (thickness) I'd then thickness the board on the new "bottom" side. I would then flip the board over, cut the slots again starting from the other end, lay it out first to ensure you don't cut to near the previous slots, taper the board and bind the edges so the first slots are not visible. Proceed as originally planned.

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crich
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:47 pm 
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Rod True wrote:
How thick is the board?

Here's what I'd probably do (to save it that is....and not toss it)

I'd fill each of the slots with a sliver and glue them in. If you have some room to sand (thickness) I'd then thickness the board on the new "bottom" side. I would then flip the board over, cut the slots again starting from the other end, lay it out first to ensure you don't cut to near the previous slots, taper the board and bind the edges so the first slots are not visible. Proceed as originally planned.


That's interesting- using silver. Why silver? I was about to suggest the same but filing with wood. Clinton
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Rod True
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:50 pm 
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crich wrote:
Rod True wrote:
How thick is the board?

Here's what I'd probably do (to save it that is....and not toss it)

I'd fill each of the slots with a sliver and glue them in. If you have some room to sand (thickness) I'd then thickness the board on the new "bottom" side. I would then flip the board over, cut the slots again starting from the other end, lay it out first to ensure you don't cut to near the previous slots, taper the board and bind the edges so the first slots are not visible. Proceed as originally planned.


That's interesting- using silver. Why silver? I was about to suggest the same but filing with wood. Clinton


You might want to read it again.......And no, I didn't edit (you can tell from your own post, which of course I can't edit)

;)

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DennisK
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:20 am 
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theguitarwhisperer wrote:
That's not a mistake, that's a "microtone"!

Put a few more in.....

That's what I was thinking as well :)

What scale length is it? Long enough for a terz guitar if you cut it off at the 4th fret? If not, you could cut it at whatever fret leaves an ukulele scale.

Or, route out the portion between the 3rd and 4th frets down to the depth of the fret slots, take some of the offcut from the end of the board and glue in the space, level it, and re-cut the 3rd and 4th slots. The grain discontinuity may be noticeable if someone looks closely, but maybe you could flip the offcut piece around to get the dark line more closely aligned to where it should be. And maybe add some inlays to draw the eye away from the grain of the fingerboard itself :)
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motojerbear
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:29 am 
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That is so crazy cause I read silver too!!! idunno
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dpm99
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:01 am 
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Well, he's binding the fretboard. Silver would technically work. ;)

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runamuck
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:16 am 
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If it were me, I'd replace it. To accept an error like that emotionally
colors the rest of the building process in a less than positive way.
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Clay S.
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:37 am 
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To use the board at that scale length I would follow Rod's suggestion, except I would reslot the other side starting at the same end, only 1/2 the distance down from the smallest fret interval. That should keep all the fret slots from lining up with any of the original slots.
Dennis also has a good idea for using the board for a short scale instrument, especially since there is plenty of length on the lower end to cut more fret slots to keep a 20 fret board.
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Tom West
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:46 am 
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Possible uke...........??
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dzsmith
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:38 am 
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runamuck wrote:
If it were me, I'd replace it. To accept an error like that emotionally
colors the rest of the building process in a less than positive way.

I agree- shoot for perfection when you have a chance to redo something.

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cphanna
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:39 am 
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Brian, I'm sorry this happened to you, but I'm really glad you posted your question. There are some great suggestions here. I'm glad I read your thread. Please do follow up and let us all know which strategy you use and how it works for you.
Patrick
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runamuck
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:00 pm 
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If I were to repair it I think Todd's suggestion is best.
But how will you match up the grain?
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Mike_P
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:32 pm 
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and just what is the cost of that piece of wood?

if flipping it over is not an option just throw it away and start over...I've found that most attempts at repairing a screw up of this caliber are usually a joke and can many times be rooted in being too "greedy"...take the loss and chalk it up to learning something new the hard way...
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Alain Moisan
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:52 pm 
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Hi Brian,

I just want to say that I encourage you to go for the fix. At least try it. Your case is the perfect example of the "mistakes are opportunity" saying. Regardless of how cheap an indian rosewood fretboard is, wood is precious.

Personnaly, I would go with Rod's suggestion, although pay attention to Clay's suggestion of reslotting 1/2 the shortest distance between slots.

Keep us informed!

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Last edited by Alain Moisan on Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Ron Belanger
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:00 pm 
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I think the opportunity to repair this ala Todd's suggestion is of greater benefit than throwing it away and starting over. It's easy to start over, but to make a repair that is invisible or near invisible is a skill really worth learning and a great one to have in your bag of tricks.
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bluescreek
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:00 pm 
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Simple fix
You have enough fall off at the end of the board . You can inlay that between the frets and recut. I have do that when I do conversions. To fill the slot will show to take out the entire field between the frets it will hide better.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:16 pm 
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motojerbear wrote:
That is so crazy cause I read silver too!!! idunno



+ 1 laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:26 am 
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Depends on who the guitar is for. If it's just for you, you could just inlay a piece of mother of pearl across that slot then do the same thing on 5 7 9 etc. It may have a cool effect. Or just come up with some design that incorporates at straight line just for that slot. If it is for someone else start over.

Just a thought
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nyazzip
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:13 am 
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this is off-subject but that workbench surface in the background looks like art to me....!
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Tom West
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It may be a Pollock cast off...........!!
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weslewis
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:19 am 
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sliver whittling wood!!!!!!! idunno beehive :o

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Clinchriver
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Do a wedge shaped inlay with some darker wood.......... do several, make it look like that was your intention in the first place.
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bluesman_d
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:05 am 
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Todd Stock wrote:
DennisK wrote:

Or, route out the portion between the 3rd and 4th frets down to the depth of the fret slots, take some of the offcut from the end of the board and glue in the space, level it, and re-cut the 3rd and 4th slots. The grain discontinuity may be noticeable if someone looks closely, but maybe you could flip the offcut piece around to get the dark line more closely aligned to where it should be. And maybe add some inlays to draw the eye away from the grain of the fingerboard itself :)


What Dennis said...pretty much old hat for repair guys dealing with truss rod anchors, inlay replacement, etc. You can likely shift the filler piece laterally and piece it in on the other side for a perfect match...looking at the board, I don't see any reason why anyone would be able to see the mistake once repaired. FWIW, don't bother recutting the 3 and 4 fret slots - just stick a piece of .020 UHMW-PE in when gluing up...widen with a fret saw if necessary. Finally - epoxy filled with rosewood dust would disguise this joint...under finish, the joint should be invisible.

Had to get a bass fretboard out on a repair...had no stock long enough...just overlapped two pieces of rosewood joggled between a couple frets...could not be detected and plenty strong and stiff if done over several frets. Much less signature than a scarf.


This is the best solution. [:Y:]

Or you can always chuck it up to a learning lesson and hang it on the wall to remind you to always check your work. I have a few of those hanging around. :lol:

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