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.. and if you could please refrain from asking why I'd really appreciate it

Used System 3 T-88

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Not familiar with T-88 but unless it is specifically a high heat epoxy, it should release at the same (or less) heat as titebond.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

I don't think it's a high heat epoxy but the neck is almost finished and am nervous about the process.

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Like Kent said, heat is your friend.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Thanks you guys. I'll get er done this afternoon.

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Heat gun and hot, thin putty knife?

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If you have a heating blanket for bending sides, get that to 130* and put the neck down on top of it, fretboard side down. That will work very well.

Here's a thread back from 2008 where I showed how to remove a fretboard glued with epoxy using a clothes iron.

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Awesome Rod,

Just what I was looking for. (Man I wish there was a, or I was better at, searching this forum for such things)

Thanks again.

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Heat lamp and insulation.

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Thanks as always for all the great help.

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At 160 degrees it's still going to be at half strength and it won't come off. Between System 3's published "heat deflection temperature" of 119 degrees, the maximum service temperature (the glass transition temperature...or Tg) of 160 degrees, and the fact that the lap sheer test has it holding 1000 psi at 180F...I'd guess it's going to be in the neighborhood of 200-230 degree before it feels like it wants to give way...maybe even higher.

http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrary/tds/T-88_TDS.pdf

You might want to worry a little bit about discoloring your woods allowing it to dwell for...like...a few hours at 250 but you're probably OK for a little while. The trick is going to be to apply a fairly even amount of heat. The blankets will work but depending on the watts per square inch they can get to 450 degrees if they aren't mounted on something that conducts heat well. Blankets come in 5, 10, and 15 watts per square inch. I'm guessing a 5 watt blanket is the best call. If you get a higher wattage that will be ok but I'd want to monitor and regulate the temperature at the surface in that case. At 250 F the blanket could create localized hot spots that go way past the monitored temperature. That's one good reason not to use the higher wattage blankets. Also, wood is something of an insulator. To get 250 degrees at the glue joint it's going to take potentially a lot more heat on the surface.

A lot of heat...now worry if there are neck laminates glued with something other than the same epoxy system.

All in all that T88 is pretty good stuff...a 7000 psi tensile strength glue is not going to be easy to undo. Personally, I think fretboards should be attached to necks with Velcro.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

I don't have a blanket so will use a combination of a household iron and heat gun and see what I can learn.

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The iron will be totally sufficient. Don't bother with the heat gun...

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I used the iron and a hot margin trowel and it didn't go too badly. The bloodwood fretboard discolored pretty badly, pretty quickly and things didn't really get started until I used the hot trowel to separate the fretboard then it went slow and steady.

Now if I can only figure out how that truss rod got in there upside down

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i wish i could tell you that you're the only soul to suffer from upside down truss roditis, but alas....

ps-- though i didn;t use epoxy, i found some small, thin uhmw wedges handy to prevent the separated glue line from reattaching itself behind the moving palet/putty/long spatula.

Clothes iron, knife and about 20 minutes.


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Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

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