Official Luthiers Forum!

So a few of you were gracious enough to reply to a thread I started about reasonably priced tools. I'm new to this art and I'm starting to collect some tools.
I decided to hit some garage sales this weekend and thought I'd share my findings....with all of 7 dollars! They're in need of some serious TLC, but the soles are flat on the planes, just some surface rust. One is a Stanley #191 Rabbet plane, another is a #5c, corrugated sole. The other a 5 1/4, the handle is broken, I'd like up replace it, any suggestions?.....good finds for luthiery???
The jig saw works great, just needs the piece on the tip that hold the blade in place. I'm hoping those are easy to replace.
All in all I'm really happy with my findings, I don't mind spending some time cleaning them up. And since I spent all of 7 bucks I'm considering splurging a little a block plane

The fog is thick where you live. :^) Good catch for 7 bucks - I'd chalk that up to the 5C and call the rest free. (I'm not sure about the 191 - I admit to being totally uneducated in that specific regard).

I've never had a sabre saw that I thought was not a piece of junk. I think I've thrown working ones in the trash bin.

I have a 5-1/4 that I never use - I'd consider selling it just to get the handle to you, for a very reasonable price. It's not a vintage one from a desirable time frame. I literally never use it.

What's with the green knob on the 5C? Is that standard for some range of years?

A block plane is more useful than everything you have there! I have a regular Stanley 12-920, but my real jewel is a Veritas Apron Plane - I'd be devastated if that ever disappeared.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[quote="Jim Kirby"]The fog is thick where you live. :^) Good catch for 7 bucks - I'd chalk that up to the 5C and call the rest free. (I'm not sure about the 191 - I admit to being totally uneducated in that specific regard).

Lol Yeah that's just my old phone, my wife has been nagging me to get a new one, I'd rather spend my $$ on something else

I've never had a sabre saw that I thought was not a piece of junk. I think I've thrown working ones in the trash bin.

I have a 5-1/4 that I never use - I'd consider selling it just to get the handle to you, for a very reasonable price. It's not a vintage one from a desirable time frame. I literally never use it.

I appreciate the offer, it's still workable. I'll keep my eye out locally, see if I can find the right one....

What's with the green knob on the 5C? Is that standard for some range of years?

Not sure, I know nothing about planes, it might just be a replacement...

My guess it the green knob is to discourage theft or mark it as belonging to a certain place. It may have belonged to a school. I'm not aware of any eras of green knobs on Stanley planes. It is hard to tell form the picture but it looks like the 5 1/4 might have a number painted on the side (or is that just rust?) this might be more evidence that these belonged to a school.

There is quite a bit of rust on the sole of that No 5. You'll want to lap that on a known flat surface with some sandpaper to get down to good metal. It might not be as flat as you think either, once you start lapping you will know for sure. The good news is that the corrugations will make it much easier. Do a google search on plane restoration and get it all cleaned, sharpened and set-up. I wouldn't worry about a full restoration. Just get it in usable condition; derusted sharp and setup. Do the same for the 5 1/4. For the broken tote, just make one; it will be good practice. I know there are tote templates for the larger 5-8s and the 3 & 4, check to see if you can find one online (for all I know, the 3 & 4 might be the same). If you don't have a router for the round over just go at it with rasp/file/sandpaper/chisel whatever you will be carving the neck with. It doesn't have to be pretty just functional. You can always make a nicer one later.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

Thanks! Great advice, I just checked for markings and it did belong to a highschool....

Oops, I forgot to add that if you make a new tote, pay attention to the grain orientation. You shouldn't just cut it out of a blank in any old direction or you may end up with a short grain situation right where it takes a lot of force. I know there is a tutorial out there somewhere that shows how to line it up because I read it a wile back. If I remember correctly it is with the templates so a Google search should get you there.

P.S. I'm not surprised to learn it belonged to a school. I think the 5 1/4 size was commonly used for teaching woodworking to kids.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

Nice finds!
I have restored several old planes, including this #3 size. I made the tote and the front knob out of walnut.



The grain in the tote should run parallel with the length of the plane. Quartersawn is best to resist splitting, but many have been made from a slab cut board, including this one. At the time, I had access to a surface grinder, so this is probably the flattest bottom of any plane I own. I use it all the time for jointing tops and backs, as well as for planing fingerboards during refrets.

The key to sabre saws is use the best blade you can find.

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John

Lee valley tools or veritas had some free tote pdf templates on their website. I prefer to remove rust from cast iron and steel with a brass wire wheel, as it is quick and unlikely to remove the base metal. I wax the sides and sole, but a coat of shellac may be more effective for rust prevention on the sides. If you need to flatten any soles and have access to a belt sander, use it. Trust me! Otherwise, you will be lapping on sandpaper forever!

Toss the sabre saw

The 5C looks like it will be pitted on the bottom. It will take a bunch of work, but it is salvagable. Use paint stripper on the wood and rub in some linseed oil with 400 grit sandpaper for a truly luxurious planing experience.

The 5-1/4 is my favorite plane for most things - narrow and just long enough for most small jobs. The aluminum handle means it was probably a school program plane - can't break the handle when you drop the plane. This would also explain the number on the side. Those handles sell for $10-20.

The 190 is a rabbet plane with no fence as a 78 would have. It is designed to be run against a piece of wood clamped along the edge of your workpiece to guide it - they came in several widths of blade. If you are good at it, you can make your rabbets without a fence, but it has no use in guitars.

Welcome tot he world of vintage tools - as much fun as the world of vintage guitars

Ed