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I'm building a guitar right now that I'd like to be able to handle a lot of heavy use and still look decent. Does anyone have any experience with Qualalacq? (or Nu-Coat as Mohawk calls it) If so, what do you think? Other than the obvious reasons that my amateur self sees, (doesn't flex like instrument lacquer, chemical resistance is bad for future repairs, it'll dampen tone, etc.) are there any major reasons not to use it?

Also, I have a dangerous idea.... Is it compatible with regular nitro? (stringed instrument lacquer to be specific). I've gathered that mixing lacquers (be it together, or as separate coats) is super taboo. Would it be a bad idea to spray another lacquer as the base coats, and then do a final coat with this? The idea behind this would be to minimize the potential dampening properties of the qualalac, while still achieving a super hard surface.

Thanks

I've used the rattle can version of regular Behlen lacquer before because that was what was available at my local Rockler. Depending on who you ask, this is the same stuff as Qualalacq. It was fine, other than the cans being a bit old. No crackling, rubbed out fine, and seems to hold up. Just about like any other lacquer I've used.

No offense, but you're over thinking. It's just ordinary lacquer. They're all pretty similar. Pick a brand and use it. If anything furniture lacquer will have less damping. I squirted lacquer for a living for a while, so I'm reasonably familiar with the stuff.

I was kinda kidding when I mentioned my fears of dampening, lack of flexibility, loss of tone, etc. I was afraid someone would tell me right off the bat that I was being ridiculous at considering the use of some non "instrument grade" lacquer, in the same way I'm ridiculous for not using hot hide glue or something. Mohawk calls this stuff "Urethane-Nitrocellulose Hybrid" though. What does that mean? And is it really harder?

Ah OK. My apologies then. The stuff I mentioned was the rattle can version of their regular nitro lacquer. This is different.

Traditional nitro lacquer is a blend of nitrocellulose and alkyd resins (and/or other plasticizers) dissolved in a mix of solvents. Blends vary depending on desired plasticity, etc. "Urethane-Nitrocellulose Hybrid" implies that urethane resin is used instead of, or in addition to alkyd. Actually this sounds like a good idea to me, and worth a try. Might be a good idea to call up Behlen/Mohawk and talk to one of their tech people about it, and how it might work in a luthiery application.

Any Finish that sticks to wood can be used to finish a guitar, some work out better than others. Nitrocellulose lacquer can be pure nitrocellulose, Acrylic modified as Greg stated, or pure acrylic. To answer your first question, The only Qualalac listed in the current Behlins catalog is a sealer, definitely not the same as the Mohawk product mentioned. You should use the Behlins vinyl sealer under the finish on your guitar rather than the qualalac for better adhesion and resistance ti checking. The Mowhawks stuff? sounds more like some type of pre-cat lacquer by the PDS and appears to be a self contained system so it would not likely play nice with other coatings.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

In addition to the lacquer and vinyl sealer you may need some reducer and retarder. Reducer to achieve a thinner viscosity and better flow and retarder to keep the sprayed film from skinning before bubbles get a chance to escape. Overuse of the retarder WILL also retard your drying time but the right amount will absolutely fix a problem with trapped bubbles if you have that problem. I prepare a reducer/retarder mix of 100/5 and then use that in a 100/20 mix of lacquer/mix to lay down very nice films with a $100 HVLP gun. All Mohawk stuff. The same reducer mix is used with their vinyl sealer.

I've experimented with four different Mohawk finishing systems on test panels. I actually have some older panels sprayed with pre-cat lacquer that have checked and cracked badly so I advise to use their musical instrument lacquer. I find that particular product to be very forgiving both when processing and when repairing.

Use the vinyl sealer, as Todd and Brian recommend. It may seem like an extra step for nothing but poor adhesion of the topcoat WILL come back to bite you later...and that vinyl coat between your pore fill and topcoat is an amazing binder.

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

Oh and....Behlen's and Mohawk classic instrument lacquer are the same product...made in the same building. Behlen's rattle can music lacquer has the reducer and retarder mixed into it so it sprays and lays down nicely out of the can but the base lacquer is the same as the Mohawk stuff you buy by the gallon. The point is...you can mix the rattle can lacquer with the Mohawk or Behlen's stuff coming out of quart or gallon cans and get a compatible burn-in.

Also...since they are the same product, the quart price of the Behlen's at $22 can look pretty stiff next to a gallon of the Mohawk for only $10 more.

Get squeeze bottles...you'll go crazy without squeeze bottles. http://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-project ... es/=mlposr

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

I've used it with a brush. Very hard when dry compared to Deft. However, it is not impervious to alcohol as advertised.

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