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Good Evening everyone:
The customer for my latest commission has requested a satin finish. I have no idea how to provide that for him. Up until now I have been using KTM-9 with excellent results, I have also sprayed ordinary nitro but don't really want to poison/blow myself up/burn my place down. Can someone recommend a finish that will do the job and preferably be compatible with Zpoxy.

Thanks fo' bein' here..

Mikey

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The Biggest Little City, Nevada
www.hammondguitars.com
I love building guitars!

I don't know about compatibility with zpoxy, but I've had success spraying furniture pieces with gloss Target WB lacquer until I get the build I want, then sand flat, and finish off with a single coat of satin Target WB lacquer. You have to spray that final coat pretty perfect because you can't fix any mistakes with sanding.

What Todd said.

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jw ( o)===:::

Do you know someone who does this?

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
&
http://ensorguitars.com

Two ways:
1. Use a flattening agent in the last coat that is compatible with the finish. Check with the finish source for their recommended flattener. You will need to be able to spray a perfect last coat because ideally you'll not touch the finish at all once it is sprayed. If you cannot get a perfect last coat, then you'll have to:
2. Rub the finish out with a mild abrasive and lubricant to get the proper sheen. Steel wool and olive oil or wax is a traditional method. Like most finishing techniques, it takes some experience and care to get really good results. Finish some offcuts at the same time as the guitar and you'll have something comparable to practice on beforehand.

I use Z-poxy under KTM-9 and bring it up to a satin finish sanding with the grain with Mirka Abralon pads (up to 4000 grit). The problem with this is that the guitar polishes up with on the areas rubbed a lot (neck and lower bout under the arm), but my clients don't seem to mind.

Steve

Use a satin brushing lacquer for all the coats, level sand and buff as needed. You can also buy satin lacquer that is sprayable,( just don't shoot your eye out!)

satin finishes are created by adding little beads of silica (or somesuch) into the product...what this does is the amount that is on the surface refracts light as opposed to reflecting it...

that being said, there is indeed some of the flatener IN the finish...building up a thick layer of the stuff will result in the finish looking milky and should be avoided...at most 2 coats of flat/satin should be used and the rest (underneath) should be gloss...

I personally would rub out your finish to a satin sheen. 95% of my furniture builds I aim for a satin finish as I am not a huge fan of the mirror look on my pieces. I rub my finishes out and finish up with paste wax and steel wool. The wax acts as a lubricant for the steel wool and leaves behind a nice thin layer of wax.

Deglossing doesn't take very long but I've never been convinced by using Steel wool. Looked at closely with raking light and you can definitely see the scratches. Wax might be the best way of filling in those scratches although you will have to do a few applications. Wax on top Shellac is a nice warm 'friendly' finish. Probably my favourite.

I have used satin lacquer for all the coats without it getting milky. Generally you shoot fewer coats for a satin finish and grind it down less. Satin finishes are used when accepted because less work and material is involved in doing them. They are usually found on the low end of production, and if well applied are an "as is" unbuffed finish.

That's a beautiful finish SJMay77!!