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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:24 pm 
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So. Ever get tired of your own aesthetic?
Ever feel trapped by what you've done over and again?
Colin Symonds will think this is long overdue, but I'm wanting to branch out some, in this area.
Trying to analyze what I'm weary of doing...maybe seeing...is this area: the purfling.
I need some inspiration guys and gals.
If you would like to help, I would love to see pics of some of your faves.
Top, side, back...any or all of it. Pearl, veneer lines, marquetry, whatever.
I know there is a radial thread going now, but I'd sorta like to open it up for everything. Anything.
Wanna help? TIA,

Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:34 pm 
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Here's one that really stood out to me recently by Mike Baranik. http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/foru ... nik&page=3 (2 posts down). And I know it's binding, not purfling, but Kevin Pederson's segmented binding looks amazing.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:13 pm 
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Now there you go...that's creative. Thanks Peter!

Any others?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:37 pm 
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i really like ray kraut´s new-déco aesthetic.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Here's where I'm heading. Using this on #19 currently and probably a few more with the matching rosette. Not for everyone I'm sure. T


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:26 pm 
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Interesting Tim...thanks for the pics.
Is that basically radial purfling, with several different species?
This is the kind of thing that gets the juices flowing.
Keep it coming guys?

Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:28 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:33 pm 
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Nice Waddy. Ain't no moss growin on any of 'em.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:44 pm 
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Yes these purfs are basically radial in seven different species/woods/colors. I was working on an eighties interior for a client one night and thought of the whole Memphis design thing and came up with the idea. This is the third rosette and second purf scheme. This one will carry to the fretboard, headstock, and heal. Thx for posting the ? T


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:24 pm 
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I grew up in Mmphis, but somehow missed that design thing.
Ah well....

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Steve,

I did this top purfling last year, using amboyna burl.

Attachment:
DSCN6178.jpg


Nice stuff, Timo!

Pat


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:12 pm 
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I wish I was one that could inspire you. Lord knows you've done a lifetimes worth of that for us Steve ....... and thanks for that my friend. Hans Brentrup use to hang out here. I'm not sure what became of him but he did some pretty cool purf lay ups.( not to mention a whole lot of other cool stuff) http://www.brentrup.com/page2/page2.html . I suspect he may have been feeling like yourself and did some very bold purfling lay ups that went into some very unique looking guitars. Only other thing I could suggest is, if you're feeling like you need to change it up, build a fiddle. No wait, how about a ba*#o. That should give you a whole new appreciation for the guitar. :lol:

Cheers,
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:48 pm 
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Again, thanks fellas.
Pat, I like Amboyna burl as well, and I appreciate your use of that material. Nice idea. Looks like a matching rosette, yes?
Danny, what a generous comment. Hope there is more up my sleeve to qualify for "a lifetime".
Yes, Hans' work IS inspiring. I'll be doing a Hans-like guitar really soon, this one inspired by my Grandad's little guitar.
I've posted pics of it in the past, but that was back in OLF aniquity. One thing I like about Hans' work is the use of color in his purfs. And the elegant patterns he copies from the Larsons, etc.

Good stuff guys, you're helping a lot.
Any more out there? (This is no contest--you're just helping an old guy out of the doldrums.)

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:32 am 
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I have no preference with purfling, just as long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg!! Those black/white veneer sandwich sure cost a lot. I hadn't bothered to make my own though.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:40 am 
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Mine are typically quite minimalist.
Attachment:
FrontBodyAngle.jpg

Hardly visible from a distance, but adds just enough detail to look "complete" up close. A lot of it is just that I'm too lazy to bother with the fancy schemes, because they don't add that much artistic value for the effort. Better to focus on a good rosette, bridge, headstock inlay, fingerboard inlays, tail inlay, backstrip (see Peter's challenge build, although it also includes fancy mitered side purfs)

However, I'm also fond of insanely elaborate marquetry work, such as Alan's autumn guitar:
Attachment:
autumnBindingDetail.jpg

I have an idea for a thorny vine tiled purfling like that, although I'm not sure if I can pull off the super tight bending necessary for the vine... but I can just do 2-3 layers of veneer rather than a thicker bent strip and force it, if necessary.

Another thing I want to try sometime (feel free to beat me to it :P) is "gradient" purfling... say, strips .010" thick of black fiber, Indian rosewood, walnut, mahogany, maple, white fiber. Or bois de rose, purpleheart, dark pink ivory, light pink ivory, maple. Or curly walnut, curly koa, curly movingui, curly maple. Optionally mirroring, like dark, medium, light, medium, dark. I think it could look pretty cool on certain guitars. May need some really high clamping pressure to minimize the glue lines though, especially between the lighter colored strips. And that means gluing before bending, which puts a limit on how wide you can make them. Although you could pre-glue just the lightest ones, then bend, then add on the darker strips during the whole binding/purfling glue-up on the guitar.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:42 am 
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DennisK wrote:
...May need some really high clamping pressure to minimize the glue lines though, especially between the lighter colored strips. And that means gluing before bending, which puts a limit on how wide you can make them....

The red in the purfling of this one:
Attachment:
34-Snakey Binding.jpg

was 3 strips of bloodwood (brosimum rubescens). Everything was glued in in one hit, snakewood binding, B/W, 3 x bloodwood, B/W; so six pieces in all. No big deal really, because only the snakewood has to fit real well and the rest bends real well. I just taped them on using Titebond. Having messed with bloodwood previously, I didn't want to try fitting that thickness without it being laminated. Just make sure you line up the run-out of the laminations which helps it look more like one piece.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 6:45 am 
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Thanks again! Remarks:

Tai Fu--I bet one day you will be making your own!

Dennis--I'm always impressed when someone puts white as their inside line. At least that's how it looks in your pic.
Not easy to do, and a place where any deviation will show. As for Alan's work---there's not enough hours in my day!

Trevor--Nice! Can't see the joints in those 3 lines. Do you cut your own veneer lines?

Filippo--spot on. I've actually derived lots of inspiration looking at the engraving work of knife makers and gun smiths.
Those guys have some serious engraving chops. And usually beautiful ideas.
And even if that doesn't translate into a guitar design, it's enjoyable viewing, and like you say tends to stoke the
creative furnace a bit. Thanks for the nudge.

Many thanks guys!

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:57 am 
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Steve Kinnaird wrote:
Trevor--Nice! Can't see the joints in those 3 lines. Do you cut your own veneer lines?

Sort of. That stuff was pre-thicknessed strip that I then slit into lines.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:22 am 
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Steve,

Yes, the purfling and rosette match.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:01 am 
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Dennis vy cool .That mulberry bridge looks familiar lol


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:35 am 
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DennisK wrote:
May need some really high clamping pressure to minimize the glue lines though, especially between the lighter colored strips. And that means gluing before bending, which puts a limit on how wide you can make them. Although you could pre-glue just the lightest ones, then bend, then add on the darker strips during the whole binding/purfling glue-up on the guitar.


I laminate my top/back purfs in the mold I use to laminate my double sides then cut strips as needed. No width limit, glue line, no bending, no wrestling multiple little strips, and they fit the shape of the guitar perfectly.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:09 pm 
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WilliamS wrote:
DennisK wrote:
May need some really high clamping pressure to minimize the glue lines though, especially between the lighter colored strips. And that means gluing before bending, which puts a limit on how wide you can make them. Although you could pre-glue just the lightest ones, then bend, then add on the darker strips during the whole binding/purfling glue-up on the guitar.


I laminate my top/back purfs in the mold I use to laminate my double sides then cut strips as needed. No width limit, glue line, no bending, no wrestling multiple little strips, and they fit the shape of the guitar perfectly.

I'm just curious William. You laminate and bend wide widths and then cut them to the width you want? If I'm reading that right, how do you cut them once they're bent?

Thanks,
Danny


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:38 pm 
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Thanks for the answers guys.
Keep 'em coming!

Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:05 pm 
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I'm just curious William. You laminate and bend wide widths and then cut them to the width you want? If I'm reading that right, how do you cut them once they're bent?

Thanks,
Danny[/quote]

I used to use a relatively fine-toothed blade on the bandsaw but now just use a Japanese style hand saw, works surprisingly fast. Saves having to change blades on the bandsaw.

The first time I used this method I tried the bandsaw with my general purpose blade and got some blowout in the waist. I've never built a jig, etc to support the back side as it goes through so the waist is unsupported as it's cut-hasn't been an issue using a fine toothed blade or cutting by hand.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:16 am 
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WilliamS wrote:

I laminate my top/back purfs in the mold I use to laminate my double sides then cut strips as needed. No width limit, glue line, no bending, no wrestling multiple little strips, and they fit the shape of the guitar perfectly.


Hi William, help me grasp this: I would think if you were making bindings (and not purflings) this way, that would be a perfect fit. They are the shape of the rims after all. Whereas the purfling, stepping inside your binding ledge, employs tighter radii. I realize we're talking minute amounts and perhaps that is the explanation? I'm guessing so. It sounds like a nice system.

Steve

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