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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 9:27 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:57 pm
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Location: 8.33±0.35 kpc from Galactic center, 20 light-years above the equatorial in the Sol System
First name: duh
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City: Professional Sawdust Maker
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Yo, E type [:Y:]
...ribs...their called ribs.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 10:31 am 
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First name: Tom
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Todd: Nice job. Never had to try anything like this, tap wood. If you get any input that make you want to change, maybe this could be added to tutorials after the smoke cleared.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 10:49 am 
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That's a lot of great input. Thanks Todd. This thread should be pinned beehive

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 5:24 pm 
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Walnut
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Location: Tucson
First name: Steve
Last Name: Wiele
I had a similar situation recently, building a dreadnought with sides that were about 1/4-inch too narrow. Before sanding the sides to their final thickness, I glued spruce strips to the edges, and then proceeded to build as usual. Routing for the binding and purfling removed the last of the side spruce.

Steve


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:57 am 
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Walnut
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Location: Tucson
First name: Steve
Last Name: Wiele
Todd Stock wrote:
I like that, Steve...totally different take. For someone contemplating that approach, what glue was used? How did it hold up in bending? Any issues with milling the profile?



I used epoxy (T88) to glue the spruce on. No problems bending, but it was EIR and very thin (~0.07) for double sides, so bending was about as easy as it gets. I know from removing a fretboard that T88 can separate easily with heat, so maybe I was lucky. Regarding shaping the profile, that was the same as always – top edge left straight and the back edge roughly shaped on the band saw before bending and joining, then contoured with dishes.

Steve


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