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OK, here's another start-off finish question. I have bloodwood in my rosette, and every time I sand it, the dust bleeds off onto the top, the white lines, etc. How is the best way to control this so my colors remain crisp and where they are supposed to be?

My plan is to take a small paintbrush, and carefully go over the different segments (bloodwood sections, spruce around the rosette, etc.) with shellac, allowing each to dry before doing another section. I'm hoping this will seal it up after two or three applications, building up enough finish so I can block sand the area without smearing anything.

Is this a good approach? Interested in any ideas on how to control this. Also, best way to get ebony dust out of the pores in the sides before pore fill.

Thanks,

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

I found that compressed air does a lot for removing any dust that makes it's way into the spruce around a rosette. I had the same problem on this one

I sanded lightly and blew off with compressed air every couple minutes till it was flat. As long an you don't really work it into the spruce it seems to come out that way.

Ya so Phil ,
know you know why they call it blood wood...it bleeds.

scrape only ...no sanding and seal with shellac.

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What Padma Said...

I had a guitar that i did a complete refinish on and it had a thin red line in the perfling and a scraper is the only way to keep it from getting all over. And make sure you blow the shavings off with air and don't wipe it. Don't even sand the bleeding parts until you are sure you have enough finish on that you will not sand through.

Bob

Like Fillipo said, spray, but very very very lightly. You're better to lay down multiple coats, that to try and lay down a heavy one, only to have it bleed...

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Thanks everyone for the good suggestions, and Zeke, that one you did sort of puts mine to shame. One of these days I'd like to get good enough to try something like that! But for now, this is what I have. Yeah, mine looks simple, but what can i say, had to make three of them to get it this good. And considering I was making two to start with, that makes six total. Oh well, experience is a good teacher!

As you can see in the picture, mine has segments, each segment oriented so the grain direction runs toward the center of the hole. When I was scraping this down level to begin with, I ended up with some scratches running along the grain of the top, meaning they would show as cross grain on the bloodwood. So, careful sanding later, now everything looks pretty good.

Main problem is I have no way to spray, and can't really afford more tools right now. So I'll have to take it slow, and see how it progresses.



This is not the final rosette, it turned out a bit cleaner that in this picture, but you can get the idea.

Thanks again,

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

Phil, the rosette looks great! I'd do what Filippo said - rattle can.

Looks good spyder! I agree that rattle can is the way to go and very lightly. My rosette was definitely a learning experience that was only my 3rd rosette and that guitar got finished as my 2nd. As you can see from my pic I learned a lesson about sealing the rosette channel due to the CA staining the fretboard.

OK, today I bought me a rattle can. Got some "clear," I'll see how it goes. I haven't used any premixed shellac in probably ten years, and this will be my first experience with a spray. I figure if this "clear" isn't such a good match for the Super Blond I have mixed, I can always spray the whole thing to even it out.

And thanks for the compliments on my rosette, it helps to get some encouragement all along!

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

OK, will do. I've done my fair share of rattle can work on car parts, so I'm no stranger to it. Just haven't done it on wood before, so another new experience for me on this project!

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

I use both Manzanita and Bloodwood. Both have resinous dust. My suspicion is that your Bloodwood isn't bleeding, rather you haven't blown it out of the pores of the top. Clean, compressed air to blow out the top. And as others have pointed out, make your first coat just enough to wet the surface and no more.