Official Luthiers Forum!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAFMEg0Hmv0

You have to watch him set the table to remove the drift!

Mike

I wanna see but your link ain't workin

Zeke I tried to embed but that didn't work. Now tried the youtube button and it still isn't working! gimme a min.

It's working now. Pretty cool stuff there. Just wish I could read japanese

Where is Chris V when we need him. He has lived everywhere and can probably translate for us! I want to know where to find one of the saws!

Mike

My knowledge of bandsaws is limited to what I have learned on this forum, but even I can see how setting the drift on this saw is quick and easy. A band saw is in my future, and one of these would be nice!

Alex

_________________
"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Very nice rig.

BUT, if that guy worked in my shop, we'd be having "the talk" about safety and keeping your fingers for future use. . .

_________________
Cheers,

Frank Ford

FRETS.COM
HomeShopTech
FRETS.NET

Your blade has been drifting and you do this?











And is it just me or do the guides look like googly eyes?

So it's not just me!

And yeah, I was wondering if I'm just overly skittish around power tools, or if he was really putting his hands too close to that thing

Yeah, I did exactly the same thing once upon a time, I was So lucky when the blade broke thru and I received only a tickle on my finger tips.

That's a pretty cool feature.

I have a 14" Delta with Carter guides. If I spend enough time dialing in the guides and adjusting the fence for drift, I get similar results, but it's no comparison to resawing with a Woodmaster CT on a bigger saw - notice how slow and carefully he's cutting not to bog down the motor & blade?

Not trying to be a jerk & poo poo on the video, just saying that you can achieve similar results with any decent 14" saw but drift adjustment will be more of a PITA.

My $0.02. FWIW

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Does drift not indicate something wrong with the saw setup?

No, drift is a function of a blade that is sharper on one set of teeth than the other. For example, if you put a fresh blade on your saw and cut-out round pieces for a while, the tooths' "set" will be such that one side of the blade will be duller than the other.

I hates band saws.....

The only true solution to resawing with efficiency is horsepower, and lots if it! That video is a joke, as has been pointed out; he's cutting so carefully and slowly that anyone here on their saw can achieve the same results.

The laser? Just go get yourself a cheap laser level deal from any economy tool supply place, bolt it up to your saw and enjoy... I have a $10 laser that shoots a thin line, bolted to my ceiling to help me set the necks on my mandolins... Lasers shoot light. Light doesn't bend. Cheap lasers work as well as expensive lasers for what we need them for...

I loves Bandsaws. My favorite power tool by far.
Instead of a rotating table and laser, how about a simple home made fence and a adjustable bevel square. Run a board part way through to get the drift, copy the drift angle from the edge of the board with your bevel square and use this to set the fence at the drift angle. This deal in the video complicates a very simple process. Krenov laid it out pretty well 40 years ago in one of his books.
The secret ( and it isn't a secret it is well known) to efficient resawing is a saw that is well tuned: a frame that is stiff enough to tension the blade properly, the right blade for the job, fence set for drift, wheels balanced and tires crowned, wheels coplanar, guides set properly, blade parallel to fence and adequate power for the saw. Throwing more HP at the situation will not give efficiency or good results. All the other things I outlined need to be right as well. A steady hand helps as well. You should be able to get a surface that is as clean as off of a jointer. Maybe a little rougher but the surface will clean up as easily as the surface from a jointed board.
L.

_________________
Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

In the first part of that video I swear he is using my 40 year old craftsman... That is how my saw works even with a new blade. No fancy adjustments like that on my POS...

Cool video and very impressive when viewed the first time, that's for sure. However, as it's been said already, if you have
your bandsaw properly set-up, most will cut a straight line once the fence is adjusted for drift. It's funny, though, how
so many manufacturer's focus on blade drift, et al, but at the end of the day, a whole bunch of wood is "free-handed"
through a bandsaw and if you take your time, don't push the stock, and follow the line, you can get a pretty good cut
with about any of them, with the proper blade, of course.

Now, in my case, I need to invest in a riser block and a longer blade so I can resaw something over 6 inches, lol.

i loved that music!

_________________
member of the guild of professional dilettantes

Of course proper setup is still necessary, but having a lot of power to spare makes a huge difference. Until you've run a powerful saw you'll not really "get it". A late friend had a 18hp 2 cylinder Briggs & Stratton bolted to his bandsaw, and it was crazy how effortless and consistent it cut and best of all, the cuts were always smooth and straight, even as the blade began to dull. Yes, this was an example of redneck engineering overkill, but it proved the point.

grumpy, is your friend's name Tim Allen?? (I apologize.....I just re read your post, so sorry about you losing your friend)

To address all the negatives about the saw, operator and video.....the thing I wanted comments on most was the ease at which he could address the drift by rotating the table and fence. I have a piece of junk 20" import that has stamped sheet metal wheels. I finally put some of the new urethane tires on and that helped a little, but I promise you adjusting this beast is a chore! Which is why I have never tried resawing and this thing will run an 1 1/4" blade.

Does anyone have an idea about how to find this company? I have searched and the only references I have found is this youtube video and one reference to someone owning one.

Mike

i also had no luck last night in a quick search. i did see one commenter on a youtube video dismiss the machine as "cheap chinese junk"; not sure how much merit that has though.

To introduce the rotation of the table makes little sense to me as this would create issues with the mitter slot. To use the fence you would have to align the table with the fence then to use the miter you would have to realign. It's easy enough to set the fence IMHO.

_________________
Michael Lloyd

“I was born to ignorance, yes, and lesser poverties ...
I was born to privilege that I did not see ... I didn’t know it, but my way was paved” – John Gorka

With a properly set up bandsaw you don't need excessive power. By logic power to spare is unused power. You only need the power you need. More isn't going to do anything. Telling someone that the secret is more power is wrong and unpractical. Most folks bandsaws are direct drive and changing motors is expensive and not likely to happen. Better advice for them is to tune their saw well. A well tuned saw in the 14" range and up can do most resawing a guitar builder needs. Ones saw needs to be tuned anyway and it is easier to get a good sharp blade than change out a motor.
I "get it" My 30" Oliver "gets" it as well. So does my 20" Northfield. The 30" Fay and Egan I set up for a "friend" gets it as well.
So does the 20" Snowflake Yates I used at CR and the 24" Tannewitz and 36" Yates I used in other shops. I have used plenty of 14" deltas, Rikons, and Laguna type saws.
For the last 30 years a lot of the resawing I have done is way more demanding than the resawing needed for guitar building.
Also I will add that most folks think they need a wider blade as well. It is better to have a narrower blade that your particular saw can tension than a wider blade that over burdens your saw. Beam stiffness on a band saw blade has to do with tension as well as width. I have done most of my resawing with a 1/2" even on the bigger saws.
L.

_________________
Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

I have a delta 14" with Riser , Drift is one thing and can be allowed for . However , When he was cross cutting the block and got a Unsquare cut , THAT is blade guides and a Poorly setup saw in my feeble opinion.

Use a NEW SHARP blade and set your Guides as close to the work as possible , Take your time and let the saw do its job properly and the drift will be minimized . No special setups needed . I have a Wood saw guide I built , I offset it slightly to account for some drift and cut accordingly .

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/

Every blade will has its own amount of drift and will need to be compensated for on a individual blade basis.
The reasons for drift were explained by Grumpy quite well.
L.

_________________
Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Yeah, my 14" Craftsman is only one year old. I was dorking with it last weekend and noticed the blade is centered on the top wheel, and right up next to the edge of the bottom wheel.
Looks like I need to spend some quality time with my saw and a large hammer.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah