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But the bottom is flat and square Todd.
I use a 1/4 inch round bit and an edge guide for the main route, then switch to a 3/8th's round bit for the last part. If I keep the edge guide the same, the larger bit is exactly centered to the first route already and I can route the last part the correct depth by setting the depth stop.
Fits perfectly and eliminates the stress riser.
Edge guide, router, and 2 bits.
Just measure a little more carefully than I did, this one was a little sloppy I admit...

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Old growth, shmold growth!

What's a core box?
From what I read on wikipedia one would have nothing to do with this.
I just use an edge guide and route the slot parallel to the edge while the neck blank is still square.
The two bits are the perfect size and the rod is fitted perfectly with no gaps, it's just a hair off center due to sloppiness of the initial route.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Thanx Fillipo!

All my woodworking skills are basically geared towards luthiery and I'm unfamiliar with all the terms for different bits. I've also never really needed that bushing guide,

I use the same bit you do, 1/4 inch and then 3/8ths.

I like the template too.

I kinda like routing the slot first though 'cuz then I can lay out the neck around the slot and make sure everything is in the exact right spot, it looks like your adjustment nut is a hair proud of the end.

How much play is there in the bushing? How od you make sure

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Old growth, shmold growth!

Interesting. I thought they were all the same. The "core box" bit I use for fretboard radiusing is basically flat on the bottom with curved sides. Probably explains why one of the guys that took my advice to use one for the same purpose couldn't make it work. Bet he got a half round profile.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thanks for the info guys. I look forward to testing on the Martin Rods.

I really like the design, and the track record for these rods sounds unbeatable.

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http://Michaudmade.com