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EddieLee
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:36 pm 
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I saw this video by Michael Greenfield on a way to sand side flat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-BfqRi3QCs

Looks like a great idea but where would you get spring steel those dimensions?

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Jim Kirby
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:33 pm 
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That is cool and I think I'll shop for some stock myself.

The place to go is McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) or similar industrial supply houses. Just enter "spring steel" and look at the rolled shim stock when it comes up as an option. Many thicknesses and widths available.

I use spring steel for bender slats since it doesn't take the set that usual stainless shim stock does, but you have to take care of it as it does tend to rust more readily. (and it can get away from you when you are taking a side out of the bender :o )

For me, shopping at McMaster-Carr is always a trip, as their local warehouse is about 10 miles away and there is always a truck on the way to the university. I have sometimes gotten my order delivered the same morning that I place it. Wowie!

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TimAllen
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:40 pm 
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I saw that video a while ago and, not having any spring steel, using my thickness sander I thinned down a scrap of Formica until it was flexible enough to follow the contour of the sides, but still springy. It worked.

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giltzow
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:22 pm 
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I have been using the spring steel slats that Mr. Greenfield recommended since the video came out. They work extremely well. Easily removing most of the 'bumps' and giving you a very uniform, smooth surface. I got the spring steel (lifetime supply) from McMaster-Carr. Highly recommend it and thanks to Michael Greenfield for that video - Mike

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Nils
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:06 pm 
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Another way I've heard of this being done is by using a sanding block made flexible by kerfs. I have yet to try this the spring steel but its on my list.
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Pmaj7
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:28 pm 
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Cool idea. I have been meaning to try one made from plastic with curves cut in it also.

giltzow wrote:
Easily removing most of the 'bumps'


Do you still need to hit it with a block/tube afterwards?

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uvh sam
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:59 pm 
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The point behind this technique is to level the sides. Any sanding afterward should be done with a block to ensure the flatness remains
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giltzow
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 1:12 am 
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pat macaluso wrote:
Cool idea. I have been meaning to try one made from plastic with curves cut in it also.

giltzow wrote:
Easily removing most of the 'bumps'


Do you still need to hit it with a block/tube afterwards?


I use the spring steel slats before cutting the binding ledges. I use them again after scraping the bindings and then use a block for final sanding.

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