Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi guys,

I was needing to purchase truss rods and wanted to give the Martin rod a look since there has been a lot of positive reviews on this forum. I purchased a few Martin style rods from John at Blues Creek (thanks John!). I have been using Allied Rods for the past few years putting the access for the TR at the headstock. I have some slot heads to make and have also been getting requests to put the access through the sound hole.

The first thing I notice when comparing the Martin style rods to the Allied rods is that the active length (length before the nut) is shorter. So I have a few questions on installing them.

1. Positioning the rod - how far into the neck?
Do I mount it with the nut flush to my dovetail tenon, recessed into the neck, or protruding? I’m thinking flush or slightly recessed in order to get the active part of the rod close to the centre of the neck?

2. Filler strip or directly under the fretboard? I’ve always used a thin filler strip and don’t see any reason to change.

Thanks in advance, and any additional tips on using these rods are welcome.

_________________
Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

Josh: I use the Martin style as sold by Stew-Mac with the aluminum channel. Other then material I assume both rods are similar. I mount them as you have stated and use a thin filler on top. I install early in the neck process and that is the reason I use a strip, in case I need a bit of clean up or leveling before gluing board. I epoxy the rod in place and make sure the nut and thread have a coat of oil or grease in case a bit of epoxy finds it's way where it shouldn't be. I cut the slot on the table saw, out through the head stock and then mount a filler. Find that easier then using a router. Take care.
Tom

_________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

. I also just lay a bead of glue in the channel and one on top. The glue will act as a filler but you may use one. I haven't and neither does Martin. I prefer to keep the slot a precise as possible. Nothing sucks more than a truss rod cracking a neck.
You may use a filler if required.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I try to place my truss rod so that the adjusting nut sits as close as possible to the end of the dovetail. That way I don't have to cut through the top for relief and if the neck ever has to come out it does so cleanly

I use the new Martin rods in the blue shrink wrap that I get directly from Martin. I place it so that the narrow end is within a fraction of an inch of or under the nut, depending on the scale length, with most of the adjustment mechanism supported at the heel end of the neck. I have a quarter inch router bit with a round bottom that allows me to make a slot that precisely fits the rod (in two passes). I use a bit that exactly matches the width of the adjustment mechanism to cut a recess for that. There is a small bulge in the middle of the adjuster that I make a recess for with a chisel. I cut an access slot in the heel block (and the top) of the guitar that allows the adjuster to drop in and lift out cleanly with the neck. I've been using these rods for about two years so far with no problems. I hope never to see any.

Thanks guys, sounds like I am on the right track. I appreciate the tips.

_________________
Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com