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Saw this one one YouTube and I've made one for the workshop. Great!

http://www.theluthierblog.com/articles/sharpening-jig/

Which is your favourite?

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nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com

The thing I don't like about that jig is that it would tend to wear grooves in the waterstone ... I prefer the jig set-up which I bought from Brian Burns. I use the full range of DMT 11 1/2" x 2 1/2" diamond hones and finish off with an 8000 grit waterstone. With Brian's system and the right diamond grits you never need to put edged tools anywhere near a grindstone.

Some people will maintain that one should learn to sharpen freehand ... like Brian Burns, I learnt how to sharpen freehand 40 years ago, but like Brian, I much prefer doing it this way. A quick freehand strop in between sharpenings maintains the edge sharp for ages.

彼が言った単語は分かりませんでした。

I'm not sure it does, you can move the stone every few strokes without changing the sharpening angle. And in my version, I don't use stones until the end, most of the work is done with wet and dry paper glued to a granite plate.

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nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com

I use a jig and you need to move that around. Also you may not know this but you can retrue a stone.
THe wet paper technique is also easy and effective. I used glass until I got a surface plate.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Lee Valley Mk2.......with diamond plate and water stones.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I've had the Veritas system and Brian's system. My favorite now is the Lie-Nielsen sharpening well (I've attached the PDF). It's the quickest so far and gives me results equal to Brian's without the issue of making sure the stones are perfectly (perfectly) positioned in the jig. To mimic the bottom bevel of the double bevel system, just use the ruler trick.

James, it's surely no big deal to set the stones correctly? All you need to do is make sure that the stones are parallel to the ledge that the wheels run on. If you are using DMT diamond stones, it's a once and forever setting. Adjusting the screws underneath might take a little time initially, but once done, that's it for good.

In my opinion, the best sharpening system is the easiest one because then you will use it often. To that end, I like my Worksharp 3000. It probably takes me less than a 30 s pause in what I am doing to touch up an edge with this thing sitting near my bench.

Pat

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There are three kinds of people:

Those that make things happen,
those that watch things happen,
and those that wondered what happened.

I'll note the difference between being "no big deal," and being less efficient than what I'm using now.

Brian's jig gets great results, but by it's nature it requires more fiddling. If you adjust one screw a quarter turn, the other seven are out. Every time you sharpen you need to make sure the blade's square in the guide, pop the angle gauge on, and adjust shims until you get it right. It's also pretty big and somewhat costly in comparison.

I like the LN well. I like butting the blade up against the correct stop, knowing it's square, and going at it. I can be done in under a minute, possibly even 30 seconds. Not that it's a race, but it's nice. Here's my version. It's just a bench hook with stops from 20° to 45°. If I want to use a back bevel, I use the ruler trick. If I wanted to get really GQ, I could make a recess and glue in a magnet to hold the ruler.

Nigel

You can stick the paper on your surface plate by just wetting it. This allows you to run through the grits you choose by just changing paper. And it allows you to use a fresh piece whenever you think you should, rather than waiting too long because it is a hassle to scrape off the old piece, get out the spray adhesive, and deal with that.

Ed

There isn't one. That's why folk keep trying to come up with the perfect jig. It's either MK I or MK VIII. I use my hands. I came to the conclusion that if I could sharpen something difficult, like a knife, a chisel or a plane blade would be easy.

I agree with Pat that what ever method one uses it has to be fast and easy not to mention available when needed. A dull chisel is dangerous to the one holding it as well as to the work so sharpening has to be quick and easy, safe too.

I've always used a simple, inexpensive $10 guide available from many of the usual suspects. Early on I used a Norton 1000 stone followed by the Norton combo 4000/8000 stone. Mind you this can be very fast if the chisel or iron is not in need of major work, needing the back flattened, etc.

About five years ago and after reading good reviews here I tossed the Norton 1000 (not really I still have it it simply does not get used these days) for the DMT C/XC which is faster than the Norton 1000 and great for leveling the Norton 4000/8000 combo stone.

Most of the time I can have a fresh, uber sharp edge on my edge tools in a quick minute, again if the work is not damaged and the geometry is there already.

I can sharpen free hand as well and did that for a while too but the results are not as consistent free hand for me as what I can achieve with the simple $10 guide.

Many times now we have considered a Tormek or Worksharp system and many times when I consider costs and the fact that I can do the same thing in 60 seconds with what we have the justification is simply not there for me, yet.

Lots of folks struggle with sharpening and it need not be this way. A couple of stones and/or the DMT, a $10 guide and some H2O and anyone can be leaving bald spots on the back of their hands in short order.

I got the big Tormek about a year ago, The wet stone is a no brainer for doing the heavy work/restablishing angles etc, however the leather hone which I had often thought "whats that good for?" is incredible, 20 seconds with the leather wheel and some compound and your tool is sharper that you can get with any stone, its the final finishing step. I have every DMT diamond whatever they make and waterstones through 8000 grit and can do a really nice job with all of it but that leather wheel......

Like Pat, I use the Worksharp 3000. I also have a Tormek, but I have the Worksharp at the work bench and it's super quick and easy to use.

I've tried many different kinds of time consuming jigs, waterstones, diamond stones, etc. Gave them all up for a Worksharp and glad I did. I would rather spend my time building instruments than sharpening tools.

I've also got the large tormek. I'm able to touch up on the strop about 3 times before taking the tool to the stone again. I also use it for my jointer knives. It's pretty darn expensive! I'd likely get a worksharp if I had it to do over again..

I like the Veritas jig too. Very quick to set up and it works for me

I need to come over and check that Tormek out.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Certainly not for everyone but I use a 30" x 1" belt sander and DMT diamond stones. Biggest risk is getting the blade too hot. I am thinking about getting a dedicated 30x1 for a leather belt. But even now I can do the arm hair shaving routine with current results.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

James,

Thanks for posting those instructions.

This is next on my list of things to build. It wasn't until I saw those instructions. I know I have seen this in the past and keep meaning to do something, but instead I continue to fuss with my Veritas MK1 jig. I like the holder part, but the angle setting part is fussy. This will really simplify it in a way that will have me back to actually going trough the effort to stop and sharpen. I also like that this doesn't take up a dedicated work space.

John

Excellent to hear, John. I love mine.

The Veritas jig was my very first one. One of the things that killed me was that when I cranked down on the chisel to keep it from moving, the angle gauge could be hard to slide off. Maybe the design is slightly different now.

Agreed - PITA

I long ago learned to grind and sharpen by hand, and I use sandpaper on glass, 8 grits of emory paper from 100 to 2000. For general woodworking I stop at 400-600 grit, and for precision woodworking and guitar building I go all the way to 2000. It only takes about 6-10 second per grit, and re-honing I can start at 600-1000 and go through just a couple of the higher grits. A minute or two and back to work.

And I find that shaving the back of the hand is not necessarily the best guide. I can shave the back of my hand with the hairs struggling, or with the hairs jumping out of the way of the sharp blade - jumping is better.

Ed

Here is a follow up to my original post on TLB:

http://www.theluthierblog.com/articles/ ... world-pt2/

nigel

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nigel

http://www.theluthierblog.com