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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:09 pm 
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Koa
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I'd like to find a reasonably priced, thin kerf, blade for my table saw to cut up some binding. Can I use this blade in my DeWalt table saw to cut up binding stock? My saw has a 5/8" arbor... Any answers or recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve

Diablo D0641X 6-1/2 by 40 Finishing Saw Blade 5/8-Inch Arbor
http://www.amazon.com/Diablo-D0641X-Fin ... 8%22+arbor

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:24 pm 
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-7-1-4 ... /100017783
People used to say that they were getting these for $10. But I haven't seen them that cheap. They work great and the kerf is about .075-80 iirc

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Last edited by Pmaj7 on Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:24 pm 
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That's pretty much what stays in my table saw.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:26 pm 
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I use the Diablo 6.5, it's thin, cheap and they have it at Home Depot. I also use this blade when I resaw back and side sets. The kerf is only slightly bigger than my band saw blade. Just cut both sides of the board and Finnish the cut freehand on the band saw. Works like charm!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:27 pm 
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Or maybe it's the 7.25....


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:31 pm 
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Perfect. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:34 pm 
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Unless you are very concerned about material waste, a thicker kerf blade is typically more stable.
I have had the best luck with CMT blades, for me, leaps above the Freud.
The more important thing is to make zero clearance throat plate, and raise the blade through it to acheive full support for the workpiece.
Of course you could make a dedicated binding jig which would clamp to your fence.
Either of those blades will fit your saw, thought the capacity will be minimal.
Maximum depth on a 10" saw with a 10" blade will be +- 3", so with a 6.5" there will not be much there.

B

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:50 pm 
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+1 for CMT blades. I had a CMT rip blade on my old table saw, and it was great! Whatever you use, take the time to clean the blade often. Most people think their blades are dull when they are just pitch caked. I ripped thousands of feet of wood with my CMT blade, and never had to have it sharpened.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:58 pm 
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Brian, I was expecting to make a zero clearance throat plate. Since all I would be using the blade for is binding I figure that I don't need a lot of depth... I guess a dedicated binding jig could take up some depth. I have used pre-made binding in the past and that I'd give making my own a try. I was assuming that I could allow for thicknessing on my 10-20 and simply rip the strips... Am I assuming correctly?

Any suggestions for binding jig?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 4:37 pm 
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You will definitely want to sand them to spec, but be aware that when you get these thin little strips exiting the blade they are wanting to flip flop all over the place.
A finger board to hold everthing still really helps.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 4:58 pm 
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pat macaluso wrote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-7-1-4-in-x-40-Tooth-Finish-Saw-Blade-D0740R/100017783
People used to say that they were getting these for $10. But I haven't seen them that cheap. They work great and the kerf is about .075-80 iirc


I see them go on sale occasionally for around $10. When I do I usually pick up a couple even if I don't need them at the moment.

Also, just to mention: I use a stiffener with this blade.



These users thanked the author WilliamS for the post: Pmaj7 (Wed Mar 04, 2015 5:31 pm)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:07 pm 
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When I first started buying the 7 1/4 Diablo blades the regular price was $10, the sale price was 2 for $10. But I think that was when ice cream was sold by the gallon.
The 24 tooth blades will also work fine and are usually a little cheaper.



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Bryan Bear (Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:04 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:09 pm 
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I run mine through the bandsaw (smaller kerf) and then the drum sander. That way I don't have to worry about them kicking back or the throat plate eating them.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:10 pm 
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I also use stiffners and a zero clearance plate with the Diablo blades.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:17 pm 
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SteveSmith wrote:
I also use stiffners and a zero clearance plate with the Diablo blades.


Ditto. Then a quick pass through thickness sander.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:08 am 
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Clay, don't get me started about the shrinking ice cream containers! I was bad enough when I noticed the bars of soap were thinner than they used to be but when I bought a half gallon of ice cream only to find out it was 1 1/2 quarts I was mad (don't mess with my ice cream). As if it wasn't bad enough that the new smaller container (same old price) became the norm, I saw one brand advertising on the box that it had 2 scoops more than other brands (it was just a full 1/2 gallon container)!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:25 am 
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I hate to show my ignorance but, where do I find stiffeners for the thinner blade? Does HD sell them?

I figured that it would be better to cut up the binding on a table saw rather than the band saw because it would be easier to cut the strips straight...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:29 am 
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Put a fence on your bandsaw, super handy...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:52 am 
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Sorry, I got side tracked with ice cream. . . I meant to say that I too use the bandsaw with a fence. Cutting strips that thin on the table saw scares me. I do tend to be a wuss when it comes to the tablesaw though. I'm sure that cutting them on table saw would make it easier to get straighter cuts but I Clean both sides up in the thickness sander anyway. I error on the thick side and then flatten any waves out in the sander. It probably works out to be the same in wood waste. I think the bandsaw leaves a thinner kerf but you sand a bit more. I always cut mine thick anyway because when I prep them I have never yet decided how thick I want them to be. Once I decide on my router bearing combinations for the binding and purfling I do the final thicknessing.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 12:26 pm 
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ditto --- Binding fabrication = band saw + drum sander
Both blanks and strips
At least that is how our process has evolved.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 12:50 pm 
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sdsollod wrote:
I hate to show my ignorance but, where do I find stiffeners for the thinner blade? Does HD sell them?



I ordered mine from Amazon a number of years ago. A quick search turns up several choices.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 1:08 pm 
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Maybe I should rethink the process and try using the band saw...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:40 pm 
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I have a cheap 9-inch bandsaw with a wide fine-tooth blade.
It does a great job at cutting strips with only a little sanding required.
I clamp a board to the table as a fence.
I cut this Coco to 0.08" thick.
Dan


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:39 pm 
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Band saw, fence and one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig

I always have the re-sawn piece on the outside of the cut -- never pinched against the fence.

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