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Started a new one this week, going to be a little experimental for me at least.
Here is as far as I have got on the rosette.

I will chisel out the crescents on the top and replace them with pieces from the other two woods

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

So far so good!

Pretty cool. You'll have lots of fun fitting the crescents in there later.
Hope you'll post some photos of the finished rosette

Looking good so far. That should be nice when it's done.

I suppose that there is a choice to be made in how they meet. Going through with the purflings on only one side of the intersections would make a rope/knot pattern.

That should look very cool Brian. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Finished up this morning. Came out OK. I think it looked better on the concept sketch, execution was only 90%, learned a few things, had fun and I am using this on this build, warts and all.

B

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

It's a nice effort! I think the previous comment about continuing the purfling lines around so that it ends up looking like a continuous loop was really correct (and which I would gladly steal if I were to pursue this myself). I think the alternate wood inlays in the interior regions between the rings need to be rethought somehow - to me they distract from the visual interest of the overlapping rings. It may be that, if the previous advice were applied, then the ring structure would be so unified that the second comment wouldn't have come up.

You pursued a lot of work that will be hidden under the fretboard to completion - use of time and material??

Keep it up - it's much more ambitious than anything I've tried.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

I like the design, it just looks disproportionately huge on the guitar shape. Just my opinion.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

I think if u scaled it by 30%, it would look more finessed. Thinner shell lines. Same wood all the way. Then, use a small washer to trace an even thickness line on the inside (do while shell etc is still above the surface), then sand back to lines. Instead a round sound hole, it will be a rounded triangle sound hole. 2 cents.

Another idea would be to pack it all inside of two concentric rings

If the shell line were much thinner - say in black - I think the size and color and general look of what you have might look better.

Thanks for the visuals and the toot

Ed

Yea, it feels too bulky to me. I should have used the thinner shell, but like I said I learned. The problem is that the way I assembled this it needed to be glued as I progressed. Each piece provided the position for the next piece, so once into it, it was tough to turn around, and since this is a nice top I will be using it.
Nice thought Mike, I may yet change the hole shape.

Stay tuned because I will be experimenting with a few other methods.
For example, the heel block be exposed so that no veneer is needed where the wedge or graft would normally go. I rabbetted the block so it is flush with the sides.

B

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My memory is so good, sometimes I remember things that never happened.

I don't think it is too bulky, just a little bulky. But, if you sand the hole to match the triangle, then your (my) eye might not be drawn to that part of the design and stay more on the pattern. Its a symmetry thing I think. I do like your idea and plan on using a version of it.

It might be easier to excavate the whole area with the router, rough fit the crescent shapes then go back and re-rout the channels for the shell. This will define the shapes of the crescents and the shell will just slip down in rather than having to fit all those wood pieces.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.