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Here I tested the makings of a neck and headstock joint. Years ago I bought some African Mohagany and it's just been patiently drying in my shop. It planed up so very beautifully and I kinda fell in love with the look of the wood while working it. Pictures don't do this wood justice, the markings and texture remind me of a cheetah. This piece of wood actually does have a musical quality to it and a very light feeling. I'm fascinated with it. Getting started was intimidating but once I was rolling everything went fine.

The 15 degree angle joint came out perfectly. The picture shows a bit of glue squeeze out. I (somehow) managed to get the parts all perfectly to width and square on every front without tear out except in one spot. While resawing I dipped into the fretboard face a tiny bit and to plane it out would reduce the neck to lesser dimension of 11/16.

Is there any harm in leaving that "flap" created by this under the fretboard? Will it rattle or something? Or can I reduce the thickness of the board and eliminate it completely? How thick are your necks?


Thanks,
-j

Also, I cannot wait to shape this neck. I know, I know... I gotta wait to install the fretboard and fretwork and to have a flat surface to strike against is important, or is it essential?

All our necks are and have been shaped (100's) without the fingerboard attached -- is that what you are asking? Are you aware that the blank in your picture is not vertical grain material? I believe that while some necks are by design slab cut (Strat's) the norm is to use 1/4 sawn material for acoustic guitar necks -- Martin, Taylor, Larrivee etc. not strength but stability is the issue.

_________________
Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Yes, I'm just using wood I have laying around to go through the process. I'm pretty sure my first guitar won't exactly be perfect so I'm just using what I have to figure out the mechanics. So I don't screw up expensive wood.

-j

Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I'm asking. Do you use a caul shaped inverse to support the neck while driving in frets?

No, you're fine. That little divot will likely not be under the fingerboard anyway once the taper is cut.

Have you glued the heel on yet? I like to taper my necks from 5/8" at the nut to 3/4" at the heel anyway. Puts the scarf joint glue line in a nicer looking place than if you carve the neck from the back side, which puts the glue line in the middle of the headstock.

But if you've already glued the heel on, it could mess up the position, since planing a taper on the fingerboard side will push the nut line further out toward the end of the headstock. And on that note, your headstock may be too short to taper at this point anyway...

I was referring to tapering from the narrow nut end to wide end.

Like the Martin factory we install the frets to the FB prior to gluing it to the neck. On scarf joint necks I like to install veneer to the back and front of the headstock.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

As soon as I understand the shape, the implications, and dimensions of a modified V I'll start carving. Excited!

I understand the strength advantage to a top veneer. Are there/ what are the advantages of a bottom veneer?

-j

Regarding neck thickness, mine are 5/8" at the 1st fret and 7/8 at the 10th, without fret board.

I don't know where you are with the body or even if you are making a SS or classical, or what kind of neck joint you are planning but, I would get the heel angle right for the body and cut a truss rod channel if you are using one before you do any tapering or carving

_________________
Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

The veneer on the back adds a bit of strength, but also covers up the scarf joint.
Here is a nice example from Mr. Ryan: