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 Post subject: STEW MAC BINDING TAPE ?
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 8:57 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Does anyone have a better or cheaper source than stew mac for the brown binding tape. Last time I ordered, it took over 1 week . I need at least 4 rolls Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:35 pm 
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Earnie, From what I hear there are better sources. It's just "Kraft" tape. I know this won't help, but usually order 6 at a time. This is one item I prefer to order from Stew Mac. U can also pay for faster ship. I wish u lived close, I'd just send you some. In fact, I will if u agree to stew Mac price and cover shipping.

Better yet, I'll ship u 4 and u drop ship me 4 from SM. No money changes hands


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:58 pm 
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I saw what looked like it at the paint store - I didn't test it though and I didn't write down who made it but I know it wasn't 3M.

It was marked as masking tape for concrete.

This was at an actual paint store, not one of the big boxes.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:07 pm 
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Worth the wait,
worth the cost!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:13 pm 
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I agree. Worth the wait. What might look like the stew Mac tape may not be it. There are so many tapes out there. This one works so well I'd hate to take a chance on it.

I know paying for two day shipping sucks, but you need it, so pay for it? I've had to do that so many times that I now double check my stocks of stuff when making SM/LMI orders.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:17 pm 
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What don't you like about fibre strapping tape Ernie? It's strong and easy to find.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:47 am 
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DannyV wrote:
What don't you like about fibre strapping tape Ernie? It's strong and easy to find.


I concur....

It would be nice to have a bit of stretch in the tape (why guys till us the stew-mac brown I'm sure) but I'll go with the strapping tape every time as it just won't rip over the sharp binding edge........and it's mucho cheaper.... speaks my language.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:58 am 
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Rod True wrote:
I'll go with the strapping tape every time as it just won't rip over the sharp binding edge

That's why to scrape the sharp edge before installing the binding. Scrape the inner edge as well, to help it seat better. But be careful not to scrape the outer edges that meet the soundboard/back/sides.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 6:15 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Strapping tape...


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I will try the strapping tape .I think we call it fiberglass tape or whatever.. If not, and it won/t work for me will break my piggy bank an but stew mac brwn tape Thanks everyone !!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:18 am 
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In case anyone is bored, or enjoys researching tapes, I think one of these is close to the StewMac product.

Unfortunately an online search only turns up case quantities.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:32 pm 
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My personal favorite is the 3M 2060 green tape for hard to stick surfaces. It has some stretch to it, and it is pretty strong. I tear it less than the Stew Mac or the LMI binding tape. I use it for jointing backs and tops sometimes as well, and it works great for that with the stretch. It's available in 3/4", 1" and 1 1/2". Not cheap, but there's lots on a roll. It also comes off without pulling out fibers, or at least it has for me. If it feels like it's going to, a little heat from a hair dryer helps that situation.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:32 pm 
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I have a 2" wide roll of this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVB85RA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 on order. It looks very similar. Will let you know.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 8:52 am 
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Thanks waddy abt the 3m product , yes if I stretch the SM tape it tears . I ordered the fiberglass tape off e-vi l bay 2 for $10. Will check the #2060


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 3:39 pm 
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Ernie my friend I have tried all the different tapes and prefer, greatly the Stew-Mac stuff and here's why:

1) The adhesive seems to be just right in not being too tacky but strong enough. If the adhesive is stronger as is the case with strapping tape the risk of lifting fibers especially with spruce tops is pretty great. You can minimize the risk by buttering on some Zinser, dewaxed shellac a couple of inches inward around the rim where ever the tape will be.

2) I always wanted my binding to fit pretty well without any unnatural acts from the tape. Nonetheless.... the waist can be problematic. I would simply double the brown tape in the waist area, one layer on another..., and that did the trick nicely.

3) My process includes gently warming the tape in advance of where I am pulling it off. This helps to release the adhesive and prevent fibers from being lifted. The brown paper tape seems to warm up quicker and more completely than other, water proof tapes such as the strapping variety of tapes.

4) I want a thin tape, not very wide so that I can visually inspect that my bindings are in fact well seated and in the channel. The brown stuff is what, 1/2 - 3/4" wide permitting some spaces between pieces of tape allowing me to inspect my progress and results.

NOTE: I like Titebond original for wood bindings and am not a fan of CA for bindings. I know this is not what most builders, especially newer builders like to use but I have my reasons why I don't like CA. For example the very nature of bindings and why originally they were often celluloid or more recently plastic is to absorb an impact on the vulnerable edges of an instrument. With the penchant that many of us have for wood bindings any glue that does not do well with shear stress/forces seems counter to my thinking for the applications of bindings where the purpose of bindings is to take a bump and keep on keeping on....

Anyway I've never tried the brown stuff with CA so I can't comment on that but with Titebond original it works great.

Hope all is well with ya too!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 3:57 pm 
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With strapping tape, you roll the tape off the spruce. A coat of shellac helps too (I never used it), but you start at the end of the tape and just roll it up with your thumb. You can also roll it off at an angle (keeps it pulling away from the grain) so that you end up with a sort of funnel. once you hit the ribs, your home free. I preferred the strapping tape because of my wide purflings and the .090" bindings. There's no stretch but you can really pull the stuff tight without breaking. For many years I used quality duct tape, but liked the strapping tape better.
I never liked cyano for bindings either. Elmers for the purfling and wood, Weldon 16 for the celluloid.



These users thanked the author Haans for the post: jack (Sat Oct 10, 2015 4:17 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 2:04 pm 
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What makes the StewMac tape any different from the binding tape that LMI sells?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 3:48 pm 
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Hesh . I have about 12 instruments needing tape .I now have green, 3m /3m blue , fiberglass , and SM brwn , your correct .I have been switching them around I have 2 u- line dispensers with 4 rolls. The SM is the strongest and the best tack so it gets used on tough areas with sharp corners and bends .Think ukes . So ta dah guess what ? it/s the strongest. For the other areas from stronger to weaker , fiberglass, green , and blue. Will bite the bullet an call Sm on mon. For uke tight bends I use an alum clamp with adjustable swivelled radiused cauls that pulls in the binding on tight bends on ukes.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:31 pm 
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WaddyThomson wrote:
My personal favorite is the 3M 2060 green tape for hard to stick surfaces. It has some stretch to it, and it is pretty strong. I tear it less than the Stew Mac or the LMI binding tape. I use it for jointing backs and tops sometimes as well, and it works great for that with the stretch. It's available in 3/4", 1" and 1 1/2". Not cheap, but there's lots on a roll. It also comes off without pulling out fibers, or at least it has for me. If it feels like it's going to, a little heat from a hair dryer helps that situation.
Attachment:
P1060925 (Medium).JPG

Attachment:
P1070154 (Medium).JPG


We carry this tape. :)

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