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 Post subject: Hardening spalted alder
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:00 am 
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Koa
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I have a blank I'm planning on making into a Berkocaster for myself, and it's spalted alder. It's a little punky in places and Addam Stark recommended Minwax Wood Hardener. My question is whether anyone knows of its compatibility with epoxy, as the guitar will get finished in polyester with an epoxy sealer coat.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:58 am 
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Koa
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Related is my experience with a spalted, curly maple slab. The blank cost about $30. I spent about $120 sending it to a service to have it impregnated with clear plastic resin under vacuum. The result was bad. The wood turned very dark and blotchy in many areas. The curl became barely perceptible. It's ridiculously heavy. I'll be using it for bases to display nick knacks.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:03 am 
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I think I'd just use your favorite cyano to give it some stiffness.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I would use a super thin cyano to wick into all the soft spots, followed by a medium to thick cyano to build up the soft punky spots


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 2:35 pm 
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Koa
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Would alder get the yellow staining from CA?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 2:57 pm 
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I use a lot of spalted alder. My best results are with equal parts oil base Polyurethane (your choice of sheen), boiled linseed oil and thinner. Add some Japan dryer. Saturate until it will not accept any more. It will drink up a lot. Let it dry for a day or two. Light sanding and as many more coats as you like. Treat it like a wiping varnish finish.

I have had excellent results with this as a neck finish if I'm doing a non nitro neck.



These users thanked the author DannyV for the post: dberkowitz (Sat Jan 02, 2016 4:13 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 2:59 pm 
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Actually might take more than a day or 2 for the fist coat to dry depending on how far gone the wood is.


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