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What planes are you all using to carve your braces with? I finally got around to bracing my first scratch build and found that the small Ibex plane I have is not adequate for all carvings. I used a chisel as well but need some more experience to be proficient with it. I know a few years ago Stephen Boone's planes were highly touted, but I don't think that he makes them anymore. So, what do you all use?

Thanks,
Scott

Just a chisel. Only plane I use is a long soled one for center seam. I remember struggling with a chisel, and Charles Fox telling me to get good at it, because it's a basic skill as a luhier. Was good advise, and I did improve over time. Also, I rough shape the braces close to final dimensions before gluing them on, using a bed sander, so there is really just minor chisel work left once they are on.

A couple Blue Spruce long paring chisels do the bulk but I recently got one of these and it's really nice for perfecting a scallop
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.a ... 30&ap=1I'm

I think someone has a permanent case of TAS

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I used to only use a chisel. I like the curved 'glue' chisel you can get at LMI and a regular 1in chisel. But I got a set of the Stephen Boone mini finger planes a few years ago and now I use those more and more on most braces. They are quick and fool proof and do a fine job.

Have one coming at the end of the week! But in the mean time i need something that I can control better and that would be a mini plane!



Can you get these anymore?

You know... I just googled around and sadly found this: http://www.luthiersuppliers.com/products/p13.html

I guess he doesn't make them anymore. Maybe you can post a WTB in the classified or if you are industrious enough make them DIY. They really are the bee's knees. IIRC he sponsored here at one point and that's where I got them.

Googling "miniature wooden planes" turns up quite a few that are usable.
Wooden body shapes can of course be modified if you want.
(Edit) - for example some stuff on this page you might find worth a look http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Planes-/13874/m.html?item=172022381026&_ssn=lanxiaoge
I have 3 wooden ones and find them quite useful for this purpose.
Blades take and hold a very reasonable edge, usually HSS I believe.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

There is this one from lmi

http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-serv ... ider-plane

Maybe someone could speak to it.

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Wake up and smell the rosewood!

I use chisels for scalloping and one of those little Ibex finger planes for tapering and narrowing. For back brace tapering I use a block plane protecting the back with a cork lined aluminum strip with a cutout for the center seam support.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I have one, for straight/tapered bracing its pretty good, mine has a Hock blade which is very nice (and sharp) but for traditional Martin/Gibson scalloped bracing the spokeshave will tap dance all over its head



I think someone has a permanent case of TAS

I suppose it takes one to know one

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

For brace ends, I use a chisel. For brace shaping, i.e., tapering lengthwise, I use Stephen Boone's little planes. Nothing better. Designed for the purpose.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I use a 1 in safety chisel for carving the facets of the brace, also a small vlnmakers plane and small bullnose plane. I carve the ends with a vy sharp japanese #25/8in carving chisel or swiss carving chisel

I use the Veritas miniature shoulder plane from Lee Valley.

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Max Bishop
Brighton, Michigan

I can use a chisel for the whole operation, but on the last few I switched to the following, and I like it better:

I used a small Ibex flat sole plane (the tiny one) for brace sides. It worked especially well at preventing me from making a specific type of mistake: catching the grain and accidentally taking off more than I intended.

For tapering the tops/ends of braces, I have been using the Lie Nielsen instrument maker's block plane. It works really well. Smaller than a regular block plane, not as tiny as the Ibex planes.

For brace ends when they get too close to the top for the plane to work, I switch to a curved Stew-Mac brace chisel.

I just used my violin maker's plane for the first time to triangulate the sides and loved it. Can't wait to use my Boone plane for the first time next.

How do you like that chisel?

Anyone else using it? I think Hesh has one too.

I'm interested because Hock makes the blade & I like their plane blades.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I've never used it to carve braces, but I think it's an awesome blade on a crappy handle. It's absolutely perfect for clearing glue away, and if you honed it, I think it would be perfect for paring in concave areas.

Thanks James.

Back on topic, I have the Boone planes which I like a lot. The blades are tool steel (D1, I think) & they hold an edge very well. Adjusting the blade with the old school wedge is a bit of trial & error for me but the steel is so good that you don't have to resharpen that often.

IMO the planes are great for tapering the braces but if you want to scallop, you're still going to need to use a chisel.

The one thing that can make brace carving a big PITA is if there is a lot of runout which will make carving in the other direction very challenging , so starting with split bracewood will make things easier & a lot more enjoyable down the road.

You may want to email Stephen Boone to get the official word. He also has a Facebook page.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I assume Ernie means a chisel with the corners rounded so that they will not dig into the top or back when doing the sides of braces.
I also use one and have to give credit to Trevor Gore for pointing that out to me.
If one is have trouble with a sharp chisel............How can one have trouble with a sharp chisel?? Have a charged stropping leather mounted on a board on the bench next to your work. When ever the chisel acts up a bit a FEW strokes on the strop sets it right. The difference surprised me when I first did it but am glad I started.
I also use a small plane modified as per: Somogyi's Book.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I find the curve of that chisel to be just right for feathering the ends of bracing but I'm using the Boone mini planes more and more as it's a lot safer.

Boone plane& a 13mm Marples chisel with the
corners ground to a curve as to NOT dig into the top.

Mc

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Mike Collins

I reached out to Stephen and he has agreed to make me a plane! Some good ideas here. I like the chisel idea of rounding the edges, just not sure if I want to do it to my new Blue Spruce chisel.....

I made this little plane for brace work. They're pretty easy to make.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com