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Hi

Looking for some info please

I have set the neck angle back a little further than I have previously, this was due to having some really weird problems when try to get rid of gaps when flossing.. The gaps are gone and I've run out of wood to keep aiming for my previous angle

I have followed the kinkead book for angle setting and it says with a ruler on the neck without a fretboard I should have 2-3 mm(0.0787"-0.118") above the bridge, I have 4mm (0.157")

With the fretboard it says 9-10mm and I have 11mm

Will this be a problem later when setting up?

I will probably be making my own bridge if that may help?

Thanks

So you're saying that it is only 1mm difference than the book calls for? That would only mean an extra 1mm of saddle height, which in all probability will be ok, provided that you are absolutely certain that you won't bring it back even further during final fit after the finish is on.

Fwiw, during the woodwork construction, I set my neck about 1mm forward of where I want them to end up, then pull them back to the exact angle during final fit, after the finish is on, by flossing the joint. It is very easy to pull the neck back, not so easy to bring it forward...

I don't think you mean 2-3 mm above the bridge but rather above the soundboard where the bridge will be. If you are going to make your own bridge and fretboard then you should be fine. Just adjust the thickness and plane of the fretboard and or bridge and one mm won't mean much at all.

Good tip about pulling it back.. had loads of trouble bringing it forward

Ok thanks..just wasn't sure as never gone higher before

Seems like if you either have a 7 mm fret board or it is sloped. Take a mm off or give it a slight slope thicker on the nut end and you can be on target,

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

Thanks.. did think about that but wasn't sure

Yes, I always fine tune with the thickness of the fretboard as I set things up to error on the high side where I can always whittle the fretboard down. Of course, now I think I have my tooling and process down pretty well, as the last two have been on the money,
Mike

This has helped me in flossing to reduce neck angle and in overall fit.

Make a surrogate fretboard of acrylic and slot it for the flossing strips.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thanks terance. . That's a great idea I have got some acrylic somewhere. .
Quick question. . What do you use to cut and shape your acrylic
Cheers

I have always been a proponent of a finger-board simulator for neck angle adjustments, we include one in our KMG "Success Kit Packages" But Terence I have to say your design takes the tool design to a new level -- brilliant! Thank you

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I just cut it with the same table saw jigs I use to make a fretboard so it is an exact replica. Band saw for the slots. I use various fretboard surrogate designs for different purposes. Like Ken said they are very helpful.

Make it 1/4" so it is roughly the same thickness as your actual fretboard and drill the centerline for dowel pins to fit in the truss rod slot.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

The other factor to consider is the desired action of the guitar. If you want lower action than typical, the extra 1mm gap at the bridge position will go towards achieving that.

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Richard

I have had another look with the fretboard on (no frets) with a straight rule it is landing 2-3 mm over a standard bridge..way to high I think?

My wife pointed out the obvious which I couldn't see.. I said I was running out of wood as 14th fret just past the body..so she says "why don't i just move the fretboard up" (it's not glued on and there's room at the nut) this will give me another go at the angle

Shows women are always right (i didn't tell her that though)

And that is how the nut with a 15 deg bottom was invented.

Haha yes true