Official Luthiers Forum!

I've been researching neck block styles that incorporate feet or extensions that increase contact with the top and back of the guitar with the intent to gain more rotational stability. I've found the C. Fox style of construction very interesting - adds feet, is design with ample truss rod clearance, pre-cut mortise. I think I could adapt this approach to meet my goals.

I am wondering about the base of the neck mortise. Do any fo you know if this is left open?

On pre-mortised neck blocks (speaking here of M&T neck joint of course) I always see a stopped mortise - never have I seen one cut from top to back of the guitar. Is that just a holdover from how dovetails are done?
There really is not need to have wood at the base of the neck mortise - correct?

I'd love to hear any thoughts or experience with this style neck block.

All images from Frets.com
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Features/CFox/cfox01.html







Is he adding a filler block at the base of the mortise in this image?

I've never done a fox type but as for the cut through of the mortise, I do all mine with a table saw so they are this way. No problems that I know of.

Daniel You do such clean work. I see no issue with the open mortise. I route my mortise on the guitar so I do need to stop or I will go through the back.

_________________
http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

You should write to Charles and ask him how that design is behaving over the long haul as to upper bout stability. He is usually very responsive.

I took his course 13 years ago and saw that design then so it's been out there a while. Since I decided to do a double tenon bolt on style I never used it.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Thank you both. I just sent him a note, and we'll see if he has any specific thoughts on how they've held up.

I took one of his classes a couple year ago. My recollection is that he did not use a tenon on his guitars. It is just a butt joint.

I owned a Charles Fox guitar with this neck block design some years ago ... not that it is of any relevance , but it also had a huge distance between the saddle and the bridgepin holes ... something like 3/4" IIRC.

I think it has been demonstrated elsewhere by those much more qualified than I , that increasing the glued footprint of the neck block on the back achieves little or nothing in the way of increasing stability, and in no way reduces the need for a neck reset in the fulness of time.